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I installed a new jegs 2 wire electronic ignition in the cap. Wired the distributor to the coil and walked away. Accidentally left ignition on. The coil smoked. Red wire to pos black to neg. what could cause this? The old set up was 3 wire one was brown,what was the brown wire?
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A few months back I was working on the car. Left the garage with the ignition on. 3 days later I had a burnt up coil and dura spark ignition. These parts are not designed to have steady voltage on. When the car is running voltage pulses to the coil. With the ignition on and the engine not running, if the points are closed (or what ever you are using) the coil gets steady voltage. Eventually they over heat and burn up. Not sure about your brown wire, what did you have before. Points or something else?
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It had Petronix aftermarket ignition. I hope I didn’t burn up the ignition. I ordered a new coil. Fingers crossed.
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Why not just switch to a duraspark distrib????... pre 1985 for carb'ed engine.......
Bet it's cheaper than Jegs stuff and near-bout bullet-proof!
Just do away with the points activated "protronics" stuff.
Unless UR racing just go with FoMoCo stuff. Good to 6000 RPM 'all-day-long'!!
6sally6
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Yup, the only way to cook a coil is by leaving the ignition ON and the points, or electronic trigger, closed.
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You almost certainly smoked the Pertonix. I sadly know from experience. They get really hot in a short period of time KOEO and cook. The case is probably a little distorted, clearly showing heat damage. I have my old failed one around somewhere.
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Docsmith - not sure what year car you have, but on 65-66 Mustangs, the "brown" wire is the 'full voltage' supply from the starter solenoid (this is only used when starting). On 65-66 cars, this wire is connected into the firewall bulkhead connector in the center of the firewall. Once the starter solenoid is released, coil voltage is supplied from the ignition switch via the 'pink' resistor wire.
The coil can be checked with an ohmmeter, + post to - post (outboard terminals) should be about 0.8ohms. Either outboard post to center post should be about 10,000-12,000 ohms.
Hope this helps.
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That helps a lot about the brown wire. And yes I have a 65 289 covert.
so once I cut the brown wire from the Petronix electronic point replacement where should it be wired to? The firewall end was never disconected it the coil end disconnected.
thx
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I wired mine so the coil gets 12V and the Pertronix is wired right to the coil and also gets 12V keyed power. Some guys have used a relay to power the coil, removing the high amp load from the 12V source. Relays can be switched via low amperage draw 12V, or even switched via ground (most modern cars electronics are ground switched now).
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docsmith wrote:
That helps a lot about the brown wire. And yes I have a 65 289 covert.
so once I cut the brown wire from the Petronix electronic point replacement where should it be wired to? The firewall end was never disconected it the coil end disconnected.
thx
I can't help with this as I'm not sure if the Petronix needs full 12v constantly, or if the resister wire still needs to be in the circuit after the engine is running.
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Runs fine on full 12V. Mine's been like that for 8 years now with no issues.
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