Can't remember butt............
Did you chase ALL the threads with a bottom tap??
Were all the head bolt thread holes blind holes or did the tap go all the way through? IF they were all blind-as-Stevie-Wonder.(IF you really think he IS blind!) then no sealant is necessary. ARP recommends their special lube when torquing head bolts.
My 'home-made'/shade tree recommendation is....replace all the weird sized bolts on the front cover/water pump with studs/all-thread using anti-sneeze on them all. Sure simplifies assembly/dis-assembly if you ax me.
FoMoCo connecting rods are 'near-bullet-proof' IF.........you replace the rod bolts with ARP's  AND ...have the big ends re-sized. They should make many trips to 6000+ RPM's with this mod. (One less thing to worry about too)
Did you put a bigger cam in it?!  Delta Cams  is right-around-the-corner from you (Tacoma, Wash)...Jus say'in!
Always good to degree the cam...........just for the peace of mind that it is"right-on". Little more duration and a 'dab' more lift will make the 289+30 over "stand-up-and-be-counted"!! (Remember....smaller LSA increases the snotty-ness) jus say'in!!
Prolly work with you new/re-furbished  stock-like valve springs.
Did you zero-deck the block?!  Good way to bump up CR...(= more power)
Inside the exhaust ports..........there is a thermactic hump... easily ground down for better exhaust flow. Thank you Uncle Sam for your attempts at "pollution control"
You COULD port match the intake(and exhaust) ports on the head to the intake mani & exhaust headers BUTT-EYE...........have read where that is a waste of time  OR   a minor HP bumper upper. You make the call.....
Pay close attention to getting the thrust bearing clearance right. Worng and it could eat-up a crank AFTER everything is back together!!! ouch..... 
Get the rear main seal right too or yukkkk.
Don't forget the plasti-gage!!!
Standard pressure oil pump is fine  Melling is what I use BUTT.......'I -heard' they have a good and a better pump. Spring for the better.
Don't forget.....get the heavy-duty oil pump driveshaft. Make sure you get the retaining clips in the right place so IF you pull the distrib. it WON'T pull the driveshaft out of the oil pump and fall into the pan.......with the engine all assembled and back in the car!
Please tell me you have altered your timing curve in your distrib.!!!! very important
One final thought......Have you bought your new pistons yet? the reason I ask is.....the newer mm type rings are thinner but still offer good performance. Like the rings in new engines they have considerably less friction which means the crankshaft can spin with A LOT LESS effort. Less drag means freeing up more power!!!! Wish I had used them.
As a test.....hook up your torque wrench to the crank bolt and measure how much torque it takes to turn the engine over! Trust me.........itsa lot!
6sal6

Last edited by 6sally6 (12/24/2020 6:37 PM)

Your crankshaft flywheel bolts will need sealant.  Also, be careful on the four corner  ends of the intake manifold as those bolts are not supported, so you can break those ears off.  But that is stock heads/manifold.

Last edited by Greg B (12/24/2020 8:04 PM)

Be sure your timing chain upper sprocket matches the type of fuel pump eccentric you are using.

If you have an early style timing cover where the crank seal must be installed from the inside, you can grind off the flange around the hole and install the 80’s and later seal that has its own flange and installs from the outside.  You will appreciate this if a subsequent seal change is ever required.

Thanks everyone. I have the crank, cam and pistons in now and the timing gears and chain are covered up with water pump installed. Next its heads and valve train.

6sal6 I got to get you the cam specs
Chris

Get the Book HOW TO REBUILD YOUR SMALL BLOCK FORD......by Tom Monroe.  GREAT book with gobs of info.  He goes step-by-step so its hard to get it worng.
6s6

Don't be too hard on yourself.  Its not like you build engines every day.  Two pieces of advice:

1.) Use ring expander to install the top and 2nd rings.
2.) Get a tapered bore ring compressor. 

Makes life so much easier.  Most modern rings can't be spiraled on; they will break.  If they don't break they will likely be stressed to where they will break in operation.  The coffee can ring compressor is much the same.  Its really easy to get a ring hung up trying to get the piston in the block.  This can cause the ring to break, but you might not know it.  A tapered compressor allows you to slide the pistons in using two fingers to push down on the top.  No mallet, no thumping.  Only downside is they only work for one bore size, but I've now built 3 engines with the 4.030 one I bought. 

Absolutely, unless you've got those fancy, schmacy bolt caps that I got from somewhere.  ARP, maybe?  I think they say ARP on them.  Anyway, another reason to use capscrew rods

Money I think.

As far as studs go though, there is one issue I can think of; there are two potential points that can loosen instead of one.  With a pressed in bolt or capscrew there is only one.  Rod bolts literally have the hardest job in the engine.  They are stretched constantly.  You can't put a capscrew in an ordinary rod, but they are one of the benefits of an aftermarket rod. 

New motor is assembled now after pulling a stud out during the zero lash adjustment. Really?  that shouldn't of happed but glad it did now before I started it up. Shop gave me new screw ins for free. Tomorrow we install the new life into the olé gal. This has been a very long 3 months. Just a simple rebuild with a little more compression, ported heads, cam, headers, intake and a 4 barrel. Should run like it was meant too. The car is all new now less paint and I want to drive it so we will leave the paint as is from 1987 when ford repainted it.