I feel your pain...

My fear is i melted the valves. Now on a diferent note, with the 4 bad wires it starts up without touching the gas. just has a miss.  Could I of had a air bubble in it. Cap was on loose and I should of never had it on at  all i think.  Darn thing had 3 gallons of 50/50 in it  but I did forget to run the heater. After break in and after we decided that the head gaskets were on correctly we fired it up and was running it , it holds 180 spot on. We will see if tomorrow brings brighter skies when I get the new wires. I took out #1 plug and it looks new and clean. 

Well if it wasn't it is now. I have it at 8 deg now. fires up without touching the gas so it must be close. 

Thanks TKO, I talked to FPA and they will blast and redo the headers for me if I want. Not warranty but that's ok. They fit so darn easy I would not mind removing them and putting them back on. Never had a set so easy to install other than our bucket T.

If you have an electric fan, ensure that it is turning the correct way.  Or, it mechanical fan, ensure fan isn't installed backwards.

What kind of lift do you have on cam?

On my 289 heads after a rebuild many years ago, one stud broke.
Then a couple of years later on a hot day, a couple of others pulled part way out.
Thought I was driving a lawnmower.

Screw in ARP studs would be my advice.
I know it’s another expense.

Last edited by Nos681 (3/09/2021 9:52 AM)

 Springs are binding maybe? Also early 289 valves don't have a lot travel room before they start making contacting with stem seal (oem style). You can't get away with a much higher lift cam. They went to taller valves and covers later on to fix that problem. That might have started when the 302 was replacing 289 in 67. Just not sure when.

Something is really wrong with your valve train geometry. What method did you use to adjust the valves? When you say dead lifter is it collapsed?

Are the roller rockers you're using NOT require pushrod guide plates?

Ok and thanks everyone. Just a side note the passenger side got HOT very very hot , the drivers side is fine and looks normal. Here are my specs that I know. It ran very nice until it came apart. was running 2500-2800 RPMs at 180 deg and came off the hwy after a short run.  
66 289 rebuild. Valve lash was done on the stand and all were brought down till they were just ready to not spin, Then after rolling over 3 full times and only ajusting any loose ones I added 1/2 turn. Motor was primed with a dril and I got 50 PSI and oil out of all but the one that was burned, but it didnt break. just 2 exhusts studs broke. It got HOT on the right bank. May have also had a air pocket? And I now suspec a leaking intake gasket. Installed dry with silicone for the ft & back.  and am thinking of useing Copper Coat next time in the intake seals?
9.5 to 1 pistons, stock crank .020 under, Balanced, decked,  polished rods hardened shot penned all that needed stuff, mild cam 475 L 260 D 108 LS 40 overlap Ex D 212 In D 212
edlebrock performer 289, edlebrock 1403 (500) rods bumped up 4% on cruise and 8% on power. 
Stock heads were ported on exhaust side, stock push rods landing in the center of the valves. Screw in studs, with Crain roller tip self alining rockers like stock ones. FPA headers. Here is a pic of the drivers side

 

Last edited by Cab4word67 (3/10/2021 12:26 AM)

Bout all you can do is pull the head on the broke stud side......check/replace lifter....ck cam lobes.....replace gaskets. (did you use the end gaskets on the intake OR did you use RTV on the china walls?)
6s6

I used silicone on the end walls.
Has anyone used the clips on the rockers to divert the oil and adjusted valve lash while running? That's how I always did my Chevy. I think that I mite need to do that this time even though it makes a mess.