Pushrod spin method is all I have ever used. Never an issue with that. Get to zero lash, then add 1/2 turn.  Be sure the lifter you are adjusting is on the base circle of the cam.

Am I understanding correctly that you primed the engine and got no oil through a rocker but fired the engine anyway?

I would replace 100% of the studs and check for coil bind.

When installing intake, be sure to tighten both sides evenly so it is not cocked towards the “tight side”.   Once you get it torqued, retorque it FOUR TIMES immediately and it will be fine.  Failure to do so will cause issues.

Done mine like MS does.
Started with the 1st rocker and rotated (with a long wrench) until the Exhaust rocker 'just' started to move. Then you KNOW...the rocker you are adjusting is on the cam's base circle. Tighten until you can 'feel' the start of resistance on the push rod. Then give it a 180* twist. (What that does is push the push rod down 'just enough' to compress the lifter)
6s6

Yeah, I've never adjusted a hydraulic cam while the engine was running.  The lash isn't that critical, so long as the slack is taken out of the pushrods and the lifter is compressed a tiny bit.  From the factory they were often over tightened by as much as a full turn to avoid warranty work due to lifter tick, yet no one ever complained that their car didn't make the right amount of power, or didn't rev out right. 

Alright then. Should I just fallow the firing order and when I see exhaust starting to open adjust the intake and then go around again and when I see the intake open adjust the exhaust?
First time I ever tried to do valves before starting was in 75 and I had them so tight the valves didn't close on my sbc. Then I started the run method with rocker clips, and it always worked. At this point I have made enough mistakes that cleaning up some oil seems like an easy task. 

I am going to go check/adjust by book my left bank and see how far out I was, still waiting for rockers to do right side

red351 wrote:

If you change cams to a more modern firing order, the book is no help.

A little time with a pencil/paper and the steps can be modified for the modern firing order. 

Cab4word67 wrote:

OK thanks I caught that. Went through all 7 that I have and on the left bank were I told you I had backed them off a full turn getting ready for tomorrow I found that they were as much as 3/4-1 full turn more before I could adjust. I had them way to darn tight. I am ready now so when I get my 2 new rockers tonight I will be able to adjust #1 and then prime it one more time checking for all to be moving oil before I install intake. Should fire tomorrow AM 
On another side note has anyone tried the brand POR header paint? Amazon has it for $24 a can

Bullet Bob used the POR-15 exhaust Manifold paint....POR-15 works best on RUSTY metal. I tried the mani paint on my headers and was NOT too impressed.

Valve adjustment.........Make sure you are on the Bottom of the base circle (the part that has NO lobe) I just start one the front cylinder and don't worry about firing order. Do one ...go to the exhaust rocker do it...go to the next one.  Keep a long handle wrench on the balancer pulley  bolt to turn the crank each time
 6sal6

I understand the steps better now...after I read that years ago.
But it can be confusing.

If you look at Gary’s pictures, TDC= both #1 valves.
Every 90 degrees is next cylinder in firing order.

I also do it slightly different.
On cylinder I’m working on, adjust all vertical play from pushrod...then add 3/4 of a turn and lock it.
Next cylinder.

BTW lash is extremely important for solid lifters, not hydraulic as much.
The oil takes up that slack.
Definitely don’t want your lifters bottomed out at max lift on cam.

K.I.S.S. Principal

Last edited by Nos681 (3/11/2021 9:14 PM)

TKOPerformance wrote:

Yeah, I've never adjusted a hydraulic cam while the engine was running.  The lash isn't that critical, so long as the slack is taken out of the pushrods and the lifter is compressed a tiny bit.  From the factory they were often over tightened by as much as a full turn to avoid warranty work due to lifter tick, yet no one ever complained that their car didn't make the right amount of power, or didn't rev out right. 

Zackly!!!

As MS said change all 16. Well we got it running today, had a carb gasket leak. shes all tuned up and I am repaling the driver side studs. Should of done it the other day but hey I must like taking stuff apart. New studs will be in tonight after dinner and we will be all good.
Yes I broke one of the driver sides today.

I use the MS method modified.  Start at TDC No. 1, adjust both valves.  Turn the engine CW 90 degrees, adjust No. 3 (or whatever is next in the firing order).  Turn engine another 90 degrees, adjust both valves on No. 7....etc...etc through the firing order.  Two revolution and all eight are adjusted with the valves on the heel of the cam....guaranteed.

I'm with BB, and MS, that's how I've always done it too, one cylinder at a time in the firing order starting at #1.  Basically impossible to screw up if you know the firing order. 

OK we drove for 20 miles today with RPMs from idle to 3800. Engine is tight and runs smooth, untill putt in home at 30 mph and SNAP we did it again. I am having the shop come over and check push rod length and verifier. Because this is not normal. I wrote if off the first time to the heat at break in then yesterdays because these were on the other side of the motor and I hadn't changed them, but now we are back on the right side with the new studs. I have not bent any pushrods. Someone please look at the marks on the tops of the stems and tell me what they think?