TKOPerformance wrote:

I'm with BB, and MS, that's how I've always done it too, one cylinder at a time in the firing order starting at #1.  Basically impossible to screw up if you know the firing order. 

 
I pay no attention to firing order.  I just adjust #1, then cyl #2, then #3, marking each rocker arm with a sharpie as I go.

Is there any way to check for coil bind?

On my setup that's an indication of pushrods being a bit short.  But that doesn't mean you can't have coil bind.  Coil bind is a result of the cam/rocker ratio attempting to open the valve farther than the available travel room for the valve as a result of the springs, keeper height, seals, guides all in combination. If you have a cam/rockers that are going to ope the valves .500 then the valves MUST be free to open .550 or so IMO.
Turn the engine by hand and use a feeler gage to determine if there is space between the spring coils at max lift.
Also, are you absolutely you do not have any valve/piston interference going on?

 

Last edited by Bullet Bob (3/13/2021 9:59 PM)

If the pistons hit the valves the engine would not run right afterward.  You'd bend a valve and end up with no compression in that cylinder.  I've seen bent valves before too, but never a broken stud from that. 

To check for coil bind you need a solid lifter.  The problem with a lot of checks you can make with a hydraulic cam is that the lifters don't give accurate readings when they aren't pumped up. 

I'm still mystified why the studs are breaking and not simply being yanked out of the head.  The way they have broken seems to indicate a tension failure, whereas most studs/bolts fail in shear, not tension.  It appears they broke right at the undercut area where they transition from threads to smooth, which is the weakest spot in the stud.  I don' think better studs are going to solve this.  There's something wrong here.  Some tolerance it too tight, and while its okay for very, very light use, once you get some heat and things expand things break. 

something i read today. A shorter pushrod or longer valve tip length will pull the roller back to toward the inside of the valve tip, but you should mark the valve tip with blueing or a majic marker to check the pattern that the roller makes on the valve tip. The roller should be about .080 or less from the center and should leave a pattern about 1/16" wide or less through the whole lift process for good geometry. My mark is just off the center towards the exhaust manifold and only a 1/16" wide. 

Last edited by Cab4word67 (3/14/2021 12:17 PM)

I used the ARP studs on mine and zero problems.   BEFORE...I used what came with the Windsor jr. heads and a couple snapped off like yours did! (they were 3/8") The ARP's were 7/16"with the hex head  made into it.
6sal6

Don't wanna skeer ye butt........make durn sure the rockers are NOT touching the valve retainers when they go up & down!  Because.....if they do, its a good chance the rocker will cause the valve keeper to come loose and drop a valve into the cylinder and.............DESTROY the engine.
I doubt you have that issue butt......check it again.  It don't cost anything to check'em again.

Last edited by 6sally6 (3/14/2021 1:17 PM)

I can think of no scenario of anything you have done that would cause studs to break. They are just crappy $18 studs.
Piston/valve clearance is fine since you had valve adjustment too tight and the pistons still did not hit the valves. Don’t worry about that.
Rocker pattern on valve tip is acceptable for your type engine.
Rockers are not hitting the hex on the stud since there is no hex on your studs.   But there WILL BE ON THE ARP STUDS, so check when installed. Be sure to properly torque the studs. 
Any chance you overtightened the old studs into the heads causing them to break?

MS wrote:

I can think of no scenario of anything you have done that would cause studs to break. They are just crappy $18 studs.
Piston/valve clearance is fine since you had valve adjustment too tight and the pistons still did not hit the valves. Don’t worry about that.
Rocker pattern on valve tip is acceptable for your type engine.
Rockers are not hitting the hex on the stud since there is no hex on your studs. But there WILL BE ON THE ARP STUDS, so check when installed. Be sure to properly torque the studs.
Any chance you overtightened the old studs into the heads causing them to break?

I don't think I could have over tighten them with a 9/16" combination end wrench and I had to double nut just to install. I couldn't even torq them as fear I was going to drive them into the head more. they were at about 30 lbs. 
 

I have never seen non-hex studs in a Ford.  Studs are supposed to not bottom out in a hole.  I don’t see how thru could ever work.

Sharpie works but dry-erase works great.

Somewhat off topic butt............ain't it cool you have people from all over the US look'in and diagniosing your engine problems!?!!
Orange spot makes me think....crack/crapp in the stud.
Guess the commie chineze still haven't figgered out out can't melt rust out of steel. I'm sure they don't give a ratz-a$$ about quality. I mean....what does an 8 year old know about arn & rust?!

One question though.........you are using roller rockers...correct?!  How can they be self-aligning? (see your above post)
Just curious...
6sal6

I think they have deep rails, Mike.  Seem to recall seeing that pic.

I am wondering that you still do NOT have the correct valves. It seems your shop has had a lot of confusion around getting you the right parts. It might be time to pull the heads and have them taken elsewhere before this gets worse. I'd have them fully checked as well as spring height, compressed height, etc etc