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Ran across this video after watching Daze’s 351w startup on engine stand and clutch for his mill.
Thought I would share this tip.
Last edited by Nos681 (3/16/2021 4:49 AM)
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I have been using that method since waaay before internet publicized it. Works every time!
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Yep, been doing that for two decades now. It definitely works a LOT better than typical extractors, which I find rarely work.
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What's the purpose of the washer? Does it just protect the surrounding metal from weld splatter when you are welding the nut to the stud?
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That as well as providing another layer to prevent galling of the base surface when turning the nut.
The only thing I have added is a shot of penetrating lube at the washer/head surface.
I first saw this method when Steve first mentioned it on this forum.
Last edited by Rudi (3/18/2021 9:00 AM)
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Hell even I could probably do that.
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Its easier to weld the broken bolt/stud to the washer because its thinner, especially if the bolt/stud is broken below the surface. It can be tricky to try and effectively weld inside a nut if the bolt/stud is below the surface, and the smaller it is in diameter that harder it is.
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Ditto tko’s reply. It is easier to weld a thick washer to the broken stud. I typically weld the outside flats of the nut to the washer, making a stronger attachment. The welding heat makes the broken stud come out very easily, especially if you spray a little “stuff” onto the heated threads. As it cools, it pulls the “stuff” into all the threads, making it even easier to turn.
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Thanks. Now I need to go in search of some broken studs to try this out!
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