red351 wrote:

 Springs are binding maybe?

Winner winner!

Cab4word67 wrote:

Mite have a new set of ported 289 heads Friday to replace mine that I cracked installing the new ARP studs. Will know more Friday.
This car mite see the pavement yet.

I hate to hear this and it needs more explaining..... how did you crack a head??? 
 

What does "I was not aware you need to have a cut in the top for the stud to fit in." mean?

Cab4word67 wrote:

I don't know the correct terminology  but the stud is fat at the top like a flat head screw and needs the countersink cut into the head. Mine did not have this so when I tightened down it went in forcing the head to expand and crack. Just more of my dum luck on this rebuild.

Was the head threaded? I thought stock was press in studs?

About the coil bind, again I am really questioning the people you had do the machine work. Yes, you've got some self inflicted pain, but it's not all your fault here!
 

Cab4word67 wrote:

What I don't know is, wilI I be still breaking it in on the Bash trip or just breaking it. 

Said everyone who drove their Mustang to a Bash.

Sooooooooooo....the new(replacement) heads will have 60 thous. clearance in the springs?
Seems like 'offset-keepers' is just a crutch for a real problem (coil bind)
Not being ugly........just trying to comprehend.
6sal6

Looks like I will be installing a new cam now too. Picture one is from the first valves lifter that broke. Picture 2 is from the last one that broke. All the rest look much like the 2nd one. I looked at my old lifters and if you look real hard you can see the same pattern as # 2. This motor only has 60 miles on it. TOAST I think

Perhaps, it is time, with all the problems you've been having, to have a COMPETENT shop put the engine together for you. At least then, you would have a warranty if things continue to go sideways. Not saying your current shop isn't good, but........just saying...

worst engine build I have ever done. So it makes since to do it twice. Motor is out and we are starting over. Monday I will go up to the shop to get my new heads and find out if they want to assemble it on there dime or come to my house and install the new cam bearings and I will assemble it again. Yes the cam bearings  are toast too, cam was pushed down into them and there are ridges from center down on the bearings and was stuck in the motor. I didn't think I was going to get it out. At this time the shop owes me a cam, bearings, gaskets, oil, lifters, push rods. I don't trust the push rods now seeing the damaged done. Monday is along way from now. This sucks.

Thanks Sal, I cant wait to do this all over again. I just wish I had someone to talk to on a phone, because it sucks. The whole car went so smooth and all that was left was a little 289 under the hood. I cant even drive my bowtie because it is storing the hood. What a great way to start retirement 

At this point I'm assuming you are tearing the whole engine back down.  There's been a lot of metal run through it.  I would replace the oil pump and all bearings at a minimum.  Everything else needs to be cleaned thoroughly.  Scrub out all oil passages in the block, and thoroughly clean the oil pan.  Any place metal flakes can hide they will.  Inspect everything very closely.  Check all tolerances again on reassembly. 

Sometimes it's good to just walk away. Maybe cut your losses with that shop, take the heads and any NEW parts they want to give you and part ways. Then pull the motor and find a good shop, show them your parts collection and see what they can use and what has to be replaced. I know it's easy for me to spend your money, but my goodness you DON'T want to do this a 3rd time. 

6sally6 wrote:

"The point is............"      whether you do the spin technique or the up & down technique it amounts to the SAME THANG!
Get all the slack/play out of the  rocker/pushrod/lifter assembly   then give it the 1/2 turn!
You are making sure there is NO slack in the adjustment BUTT no pre-load either!   The 1/2 turn just pushes the top of the hydraulic lifter down  approximately half way so it's NOT bottomed out  BUTT it's not too loose either.
Both methods accomplish the same thang.
6sal6

I was thinking same thing, Sal. 
Arguments over different methods to achieve the same thing.  You just have to feel the zero lash point. When I do it, I note the pushrod movement diminishing until some resistance is felt in the pushrod’s rotation.  It is definitely a very notable position and there is no variation.  Once the pushrod gets to zero lash, just add 1/2 to 3/4 turn and move on.  I guess I have done this so many times it is just second nature to find zero lash, then adjust.  It is not hard to do!