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3/07/2021 12:04 PM  #1


brakes. ( update)

is anyone running front disc rear drum manual brake . if so what m\c  are you using a what is ypur peda; feel like?

i did a power front disc conversion and i am tired of messing with it brake pedal goes way to close to the floor i used 92 fox booster 74 mustang power disc drum m\c 1" bore and a wilwood front disc kit . no matter what i did or how many times i bleed the master or system nothing changed i even went as far as getting a second booster an m\c but nothing changed now just looking for options. on my 65 coupe

thanks
 

Think I’ve discovered the problem with my brake pedal going to close to the floor does anyone know if there’s a way to adjust the height of the brake pedal when using the fox body power break booster the pedal is sitting flush with the gas pedal and when I start the car and vacuum as applied to the booster the 2 inches of travel put it almost on the floor
I did a test with a small shim and raised brake pedal about 3/4 of an inch and the pedal pressure is significantly greater so I need to either find a way to raise the brake pedal through an adjustment or a different booster that will allow me to adjust the height of the brake pedal any thoughts

Last edited by mark1965 (3/28/2021 11:29 AM)

 

3/07/2021 2:54 PM  #2


Re: brakes. ( update)

Did you go from manual to PB5 power?
Or from factory power to PB5 power?
Rod and Custom front end still?

Last edited by Nos681 (3/07/2021 2:59 PM)

 

3/07/2021 4:43 PM  #3


Re: brakes. ( update)

Nos681 wrote:

Did you go from manual to PB5 power?
Or from factory power to PB5 power?
Rod and Custom front end still?

manual drum drum to power disc drum.
stock spindles with wilwood dynalite 11" rotors and 4 piston calipers.
 

     Thread Starter
 

3/07/2021 4:55 PM  #4


Re: brakes. ( update)

I have the front disc/rear drum.(66 coupe)
. I used the Scarebird set up. It used S10 calipers with Ranger disc.I had TERRIBLE pedal. Went almost to the floor from day one. Read on another site that.......when using  'Shivel-lay' STEPPED calipers.....a Shivel-lay MC is required to get a decent pedal. Sure 'nuf........that helped the pedal a lot.
Check with Wilwood and see if a STEPPED style MC is required. (They may have just copied a GM caliper)
6s6


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

3/07/2021 4:58 PM  #5


Re: brakes. ( update)

6sally6 wrote:

I have the front disc/rear drum.(66 coupe)
. I used the Scarebird set up. It used S10 calipers with Ranger disc.I had TERRIBLE pedal. Went almost to the floor from day one. Read on another site that.......when using 'Shivel-lay' STEPPED calipers.....a Shivel-lay MC is required to get a decent pedal. Sure 'nuf........that helped the pedal a lot.
Check with Wilwood and see if a STEPPED style MC is required. (They may have just copied a GM caliper)
6s6

is your setup power on manual?

     Thread Starter
 

3/07/2021 5:01 PM  #6


Re: brakes. ( update)

Man-well.........manuel
6s6


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

3/07/2021 10:36 PM  #7


Re: brakes. ( update)

Have you driven the car with new Wilwoods yet?   On my Corvette, the new Wilwood calipers were stuck depressed even after bleeding.   A firestorm of me stomping hard on the pedal repeatedly got them unstuck and then they worked fine.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

3/28/2021 11:31 AM  #8


Re: brakes. ( update)

See update

     Thread Starter
 

3/31/2021 5:29 PM  #9


Re: brakes. ( update)

If you want it adjustable, just cut the input shaft at midpoint, then thread both cut ends and place a threaded rod coupling nut and a couple of jam nuts on it.
Then it will be adjustable.  Not adjustable like one that has a LH thread on one end and a RH thread on the other, but you will be able to remove it from the pedal and adjust it longer, then tighten the jam nuts and hook it back to the pedal.  This is not a modification I recommend because if you have to replace the booster, you will have to modify it as well. It might be better to cut off the front plate and relocate it closer to the pedal pivot by 1/8” or so.  That effectively lengthens the booster input shaft.  And, once done, a booster replacement will not require further modifications.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

Board footera


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