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Any suggestions for interior floor rust treatment? Pictures here from after an intial wire brushing to knock the loose rust off. Now planning to use Master Series Metal Prep, then Master Series Silver. Is the MS AG111 top coat really needed?
Rear drivers side floor pan has some small holes (included close-up), but all other rust currently present doesn't seem to be terrible. New front floor pans were welded in at one point.
After I get this treated and cleaned up, planning to layer on some Dynamat Xtreme and then possibly Dynaliner for thermal shielding (unfortunately currently no working AC).
Last edited by mustang6518 (4/09/2021 6:06 PM)
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BILLY WALTON - I'll bet you can answer this person's question! You have extensive experience with this....
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I've used a wire wheel on a 4 and a half inch grinder with good results.
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Evaporust will work fine. The various rust converters like POR15 require a rusty surface to work, so if you were going that route I would advise getting rid of the loose rust, but leaving the stuff that's still attached. Evaporust will convert any rust present, even the stuff that's down in the pits, etc.
A wire wheel works well. Twisted wire wheels are more aggressive if needed.
After that, a good quality primer and paint before any insulation, etc. is applied.
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Was thinking of going Master Series Metal Prep, then Master Series Silver. Is there any need to also do the Master Series AG111 top coat? Or would I be fine with just the 2 layers of MS Silver?
Last edited by mustang6518 (4/09/2021 6:02 PM)
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Since its not exposed to UV light I'd think it would be fine without a topcoat. I wouldn't bother with Evaporust before using the Master Series. My guess would be that without some rust to convert you won't get a good bond. Let the Metal Prep handle the rust conversion and act as a tie coat between the metal and the Silver coat.
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Many-many moons ago I........squirted some spray on undercoat on mine..........let it dry......applied a layer of roof underlayment......new carpet..........period.
I guess if I was gonna leave the windows down....and park it outside....rain or shine...then I would worry about "encapsulating-the-rust or converting-the-rust" or whatever.
I knew I was gonna park it inside(when possible) and not drive it during rain storms (when possible) and they don't salt the roads here and I wasn't planning to drive it on muddy roads everyday.
The two sheet metal patches I pop riveted in place then...are still there. Simple.
I knew I was not gonna sell it so I would be the last owner.
The biggest rust 'thang' I did was........repaired the leaking cowl that allowed the rusty floor in the beginning!
6sally6
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TKOPerformance wrote:
Since its not exposed to UV light I'd think it would be fine without a topcoat. I wouldn't bother with Evaporust before using the Master Series. My guess would be that without some rust to convert you won't get a good bond. Let the Metal Prep handle the rust conversion and act as a tie coat between the metal and the Silver coat.
Got it. Any recommendations on seam sealer or can I go with just about anything?
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I USED POR-15 GOOD STUFF
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Eastwood has a brush-on seam sealer that I've been happy with.
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The last couple times I've needed it I've used the polyurethane stuff from NAPA. Comes in a tube for a caulk gun then you can back brush it with an acid brush dipped in lacquer thinner. Looks factory.
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Bearing Bob wrote:
Eastwood has a brush-on seam sealer that I've been happy with.
I also used Eastwood's brush-on seam-sealer and am also happy with the results.
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Most rust converters are water based. Because of that it will not stop the rust from coming back, or continuing. You do need to paint it when you are finished cleaning it up with a water proof paint. I would use the paint (top coat) the manufacture of the converter says to use.
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