I bought that system and then took it to have it done. My Camber is out at the bottom. I don't remember the degrees + or - , but I jacked it up changed it and put it down and it stil would go out. that is why I took it to the shop. They were in all to fix it. The point is check it on the ground jack it up and measure it again and then reset the difference. It should come out right when you set it back on the ground.

That system over complicates it.  Fastrax is a much better system.  This is the one I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-Company-91000-FasTrax/dp/B000PG6OW2/ref=asc_df_B000PG6OW2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7372012858431006161&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007460&hvtargid=pla-570966139873&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63790029762&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7372012858431006161&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007460&hvtargid=pla-570966139873

I also advise getting the wheel lip adapters:

https://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-Company-91030-FasTrax/dp/B000SICHY6/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3/145-5539418-2756761?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000SICHY6&pd_rd_r=11b2143f-605b-4910-8960-550ea3b85332&pd_rd_w=61byy&pd_rd_wg=3KQIc&pf_rd_p=fd3ebcd0-c1a2-44cf-aba2-bbf4810b3732&pf_rd_r=VZ230TJD0JXVX3MBJZEA&psc=1&refRID=VZ230TJD0JXVX3MBJZEA

All the stuff for toe is IMO a total waste of money and time.  All you need is a tape measure.  Start with your tie rods the same length side to side, then adjust equally until you get the reading you want.  This centers the center link in the car and sets toe correctly.  If after this you find the wheel is not centered just pull it an recenter it.  Tires are made with enough precision that measuring tread block to tread block will produce excellent results.

As for getting the car up I would advise something you drive on.  The issue with alignment is that it changes when you unload the suspension.  So if you jack the car up, set your camber, lower it down, and drive it around, you may find its different than where you set it. 

I would advise setting caster first, then camber, then finally toe.  That's the simplest, most logical progression.  Never try to adjust more than one thing at a time you'll just chase your tail. 

Chaplin wrote:

I have the same Fastrax gauge and it works well. My only complaint with it is that it tends to not want to stay on the wheel, so use a bungee cord wrapped around the gauge and attached to the wheel to keep it in place. I don't have the wheel lip adapters, but they would be a good addition and might help keep the gauge attached to the wheel.

Get the wheel lip adapters.  The gauge stays on much better with those. 

No shims on a '69 BB, just use the camber eccentrics on the LCAs and the strut rods are adjustable for camber.  Its a LOT easier than the earlier cars because they divorced the methods of camber and caster adjustment. 

Thanks guys for all the tips and information!  It will be helpful for sure!

Steve69

HudginJ3 wrote:

All the trouble that TKO mentioned happened here. That's why I took it to the shop..
What are wheel lip adapters?

They go on the three points of contact on the Fastrax gauge and have sort of a hook on the end.  The hook wraps around the wheel lip between the wheel and tire to firmly hold the gauge in place.  Without them you are relying on tension of the gauge against the outer lip of the wheel, and it just doesn't stay put.