They are OEM stamped steel rockers. There’s no adjustment. You talk him down to 25 foot pounds and you’re done.

He has pedestal mount on the stock E7 heads so turning after contact with the base won’t make a difference. If the heads were milled down typically that would make the rockers tighter and require shims to make up for milling.

The stamped steel rockers are typically quite, it’s the roller rockers that make noise.

I don't know a lot about lifterology butt (TS&T) if you had the heads milled .035 and didn't add shims under the pedestals  you might have the lifters compressed a bit too much.  Don't know if that would make them fail to pump up properly or not....anyone?.....anyone?  They are supposed to be pre-loaded to about .021 (1/2 turn to .030 (3/4 turn) on a lifter nut...which you don't have.  With the pedestals I trial assembled and used a feeler gauge at the lifter to determine about how far the piston was being compressed.  If you just removed .035 from the head you could be down .060 or so and the lifters I checked were only good for around .070.  Maybe they aren't happy at that setting and aren't pumping up.

Nos681 wrote:

With heads shaved, did you add shims under pedestals?
Might need shorter pushrods?

Perhaps lifters aren’t pumping up enough to stay quiet.

This was my initial thought as well.  0.35 is enough to move the rocker contact pattern, and thus enough to effect rocker geometry.  I would start by checking that and checking pushrod length. 
 

Bullet Bob wrote:

If you had the heads milled .035 and didn't add shims under the pedestals  you might have the lifters compressed a bit too much.... They are supposed to be pre-loaded to about .021 (1/2 turn to .030 (3/4 turn) on a lifter nut...which you don't have.  With the pedestals I trial assembled and used a feeler gauge at the lifter to determine about how far the piston was being compressed.  If you just removed .035 from the head you could be down .060 or so and the lifters I checked were only good for around .070.  Maybe they aren't happy at that setting and aren't pumping up.

I did a test today and think that is probably the issue. I backed the bolt off on a couple of the rockers.  I then removed all lash.  With the lash out I tightened the bolt and counted the turns.  Took me 1.75 rotations to fully seat both rockers.  Based on your numbers  I calculated how much compression I would be getting with 1.75 rotations and its .0735".  Which is just over max.  I will order a shim kit and see if that solves the issue.  I never thought of to tight being an issue as long as it wasn't holding valves open.
 

Daze,

Start over on valve adjustment.
You know the drill: do one  cylinder at a time. 
Obtain zero lash on base circle, set your torque wrench to 20 ft lb and tighten that 5/16 rocker arm bolt.
Your torque wrench should click anywhere from the quarter turn to full turn point. If it doesn't, then you worry about shims, push rod length, etc.
That's the procedure for what you have.

You previously stated you just torqued each rocker arm down to 25 ft lb. Doesn't sound correct. So, redo as stated above and see how it sounds.

To recap: roller lifters, pedestal mounted stamped stock rockers, on E7 heads that were "cleaned" up. I'm running the same stock set up on both my foxbody 5.0's and have followed the steps above with good results.

Let us know the results...just takes a little of your time.

josh-kebob wrote:

Daze,

Start over on valve adjustment.
You know the drill: do one cylinder at a time.
Obtain zero lash on base circle, set your torque wrench to 20 ft lb and tighten that 5/16 rocker arm bolt.
Your torque wrench should click anywhere from the quarter turn to full turn point. If it doesn't, then you worry about shims, push rod length, etc.
That's the procedure for what you have.

It is not even close.  Like I said I get 1.75 rotations after the lash is out but to where it is only hand tight and then probably another 1/4 turn to get the torque spec.  As to the 25# the torque spec is 18-25 foot pounds so 20 is probably a better number.  I think I need shims They will be here Monday.

josh-kebob wrote:

Have to ask, are you using the pedestal rocker channels under each pair of rockers?

 
Yes

Good to hear that Day.

That’s great.

I went out and fired it up and the clatter was back.  The engine sounds like a diesel.  I went to the rule "if your having a problem go back to the last thing changed"  so I opened the motor back up and put the original lifters back in.  (thankfully I had bagged and numbered them when I took them out) Still clattering at idle.  Noise completely goes away at 1500RPM.  Engine has good oil pressure at all RPM ranges. I have no clue what is causing this. Here is the history of my build:

1.  Engine was run without oil (previous owner)
2.  Test ran the motor and it seamed to run okay (don't remember a clatter)
3.  Found bearing material in the pan so I took it apart.
4.  The cam and cam bearings were trashed
5.  crank bearings were okay but worn
6.  Rod bearings looked reusable
7.  Had the block hot tanked inspected and dingle ball honed
8. ​Installed all new bearings and rings 
9.  Installed new stock cam
10.  Put the engine back together now it clatters at low RPM

I am at a loss any ideas would be appreciated.  Have a listen to the video



 

6sally6 wrote:

Original lifters?! (I saw where you installed new roller cam)
Since it initially sounded good and now the tick-tick is back, that may mean the lifters are collapsing/leaking down(won't hold oil)...........My best guess
6sally6
At least it will keep you at the top of page.

Both the OEM original roller lifters and the new roller lifters are resulting in the same issue.  Maybe what I am hearing is not valve train noise?  I have already ruled out an exhaust leak.