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My 15” BFG Radial T/A’s have been happy for a lot of years @ 28# front and rear, wet or dry.
I have no idea why you guys are having problems.
As for alignment numbers, I have no idea. The guy that did it specializes in setting up track cars said something to the effect that radial tires on old cars need different numbers, whatever that means.
I gave him Shelby’s specs but don’t know if he paid any attention to them, his shop is about a hundred klics away so I won’t know what numbers he used till if and ever I have to go back there.
Last edited by Rudi (5/20/2021 2:51 PM)
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Rudi wrote:
My 15” BFG Radial T/A’s have been happy for a lot of years @ 28# front and rear, wet or dry.
I have no idea why you guys are having problems.
As for alignment numbers, I have no idea. The guy that did it specializes in setting up track cars said something to the effect that radial tires on old cars need different numbers, whatever that means.
I gave him Shelby’s specs but don’t know if he paid any attention to them, his shop is about a hundred klics away so I won’t know what numbers he used till if and ever I have to go back there.
I know we all have our favorite things and I don't like picking on a good brand name tire, but 3 strikes it's out, plus you also said FOR YEARS . . The 1st TA rip most of the driver side fender off, cracked the grill, removed the head light bucket mount , bent rad support, riped lower apron lose broke the fender extension, plus bent the A pillar. The other 2 TA tires broke belts and wish they could do the same. This was with 2 differant cars.......
Last edited by red351 (5/20/2021 4:06 PM)
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This is my second set of TA’s, in between I had a set of BFG g-force sport that were run at the same tire pressure’s. I really liked them a lot and I’d have bought the g-force again but they stopped making them in the sizes I wanted.
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28psi? Front and rear? I don't know how you do it... I was at 30psi and it felt spongey. Kind of like driving on marshmallows.
The original tire pressures for these cars were low, but that was when cross ply tires were all we had available.
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I would do the old chalk line test on the tires and see if it indicates they are over inflated. If not then I'd say whatever pressure you're running is fine.
Another thing to consider is what's the condition of the suspension? You can't get an accurate alignment with worn parts, or bad tires for that matter.
A final thing to consider is that you have 15" wheels. Nothing today uses wheels that small. My little WRX has 16s from the factory, and even trucks are all on 18s. A smaller wheel leaves more sidewall and is going to feel spongy by its nature. With handling a subjective feeling I'm wondering if what you are noticing is just the difference between a tire with a lot of sidewall and a tire with minimal sidewall.
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The steering and suspension is brand new and I just has the rear springs reset. The steering box is original, but it's not bad.
I'm used to old cars and have owned old cars since I got my driver's license and I've owned the Mustang nearly 20 years now.
Maybe I'm in the minority, but I couldn't drive on 28 and 30psi. I could maybe go down to 36psi, but I think that's it for me.
I recently saw an article where they were saying under inflation is more dangerous than over inflation.
Hopefully 15" tire options remain good for a few years to come. I got rid of the 14" rims due to poor tire options. It would be a pain swapping rims to 17" due to tire options drying up.
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In most circumstances I would tend to agree that so long as its not extreme, a bit over inflated is better than a bit under inflated. Obviously we aren't talking about a flat tire vs. a tire so full of air it leaves a pizza cutter footprint on the pavement. Under inflated tires in anything but a traction situation are going to be slower to react and less predicable. Over inflated may just feel a touch squirrely, but its better to have a car snap off center than lag IMO, especially in a panic situation.
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Could a reduced contact patch of an overinflated tire cause wet weather handling?
I personally found that out with old hard tires when I did a 360 plus on a curve on the road and a car full of people.
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Hard to know, but I can't find anywhere that says 36psi to 38psi is over inflation.
I replace my tires every 5 - 6 years no matter what tread is left anyway.
I think next time I replace tires, I will look at a different type with better wet weather rating and see how I go.
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Just look at the sidewall for max psi at that max load rating and judge it from there. Radials need more air than the old bias. The car front is heavier so it needs a bit more air than the back. 38 to 40 front and about 35 rear (cold)always work for me so far. I was looking at the old door inflation sticker for a bias F60/15 today. 26 psi front and rear both. Your way under inflated using radials and 26
. Under inflated = more heat buildup and early tire failure.
Last edited by red351 (5/22/2021 6:49 PM)
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The big thing no one talks about with wet weather traction is that some roads are slicker than others when wet. You've probably noticed this on roads you drive on every day, but if you're out of your normal driving area it can be surprising.
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Rain after an extended period of dry weather usually results in greasy roads.
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Have ya tried the burnout tread pattern exam of contact patch for tire pressure?
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