WD-40?

Find that little catch on the side of the connector that must be activated to unplug it? Some you have to push a little lever. Some you pry on with a small screwdriver.

The FiTech instruction manual indicates that the unit is fused with a 25 amp fuse, although not specially stated, seems this must be an in-line fuse from the battery to the 6-pin connector.  Also, this line should always be providing power with the key on or off.  
Fuses are not normally intermittent but the connection to it could be, something to check.
Please keep your progress posted, I was planning to install this EFI system.

KM wrote:

If I follow you , You mean the wire that powers the high pressure pump from the E.C.U. If memory is correct it is yellow ? I have read were sometimes the plug connector failed.  You should have 12 v to pump on key on then off . Makes sure the pulse width on hand held is set at like 99 this will give no modulation to pump. I think the best thing to do is use the ECU to control a relay that will reduce the load on the ECU relay. Hope this helps.

The high pressure power supply is orange and has no abrasions or anything else that might indicate a problem.

Thanks for the info.

lowercasesteve wrote:

BobE wrote:

The FiTech instruction manual indicates that the unit is fused with a 25 amp fuse, although not specially stated, seems this must be an in-line fuse from the battery to the 6-pin connector.  Also, this line should always be providing power with the key on or off.  
Fuses are not normally intermittent but the connection to it could be, something to check.
Please keep your progress posted, I was planning to install this EFI system.

There are two fuses in the system and they both are working.  I unplugged them and replugged them to make sure they were seated.

If I run a wire directly between the battery and the high pressure terminal on the Command Center, the car will start right up whether I use the key or  my remote  starter button.  That is why I am leaning toward the problem being the connector.


 

Understood, the problem could be in the ECU.  The wires to the 6-pin connector appear to be sealed to the connector, preventing checking the voltage on both sides of the connector.  You could use a small pin to puncture through the wire insulation and verify voltage exists, or not, on both sides of the 6-pin connector.  This would tell you if the connector or ECU is the problem. 
Note: I don't like to puncture wiring like this, you could use a very small dab of silicon (RTV) to re-seal the area.
 

Replacing the connector may solve the current issue, but my concern would be the underlying issue that caused it to fail.  It definitely seems like something is carrying too much load.  A relay could solve the issue if you can determine which wire(s) had the issue. 

lowercasesteve wrote:

That makes me wonder if I should continue with it or just go back to a carb.

Popular question.

Now, now, Rudi.  You're starting to sound like me.

Sounds like the location for the connector might be too close to exhaust heat and quality of plastic for connector might use some improvement.

When connectors get replaced, I would suggest using a sleeve type heat shield similar to what is used on spark plug wires.

Find a size that can slip over the connectors and leave extra length on each side.

Then place a couple of small zip ties on each side to lock in place over connectors.

If you want to tackle this yourself, as an electrician, I have used a light colored electrical tape and a fine Sharpie to make matching labels on matching wires at connectors.

You can use letters, numbers, symbols or words to make it easy to understand for you and anyone following your work.

It has worked for me when wire colors are questionable, poor lighting, yellow lights, or colors are different on each side of connectors. 

Hope this helps.

BobE wrote:

My 2 cents, if the outside of the connector isn't degraded by heat, my thought is that the internal connection of the pin to socket is the problem.  If there is poor contact between the the mating surfaces, damage could occur that could cause a intermittent issue over time.  As you can't get the connector apart, as a temporary fix, slice the 'orange' wire across the connector.  If this works, a permanent repair can be accomplished later. 

IF the issue was not related to external heat that's true, but if the problem was the wire/pin/socket got hot the outside of the connector can look fine.  I've had numerous connectors fuse over the years from an overloaded wire.  It frustrates you to no end because it just won't come apart, and there's no obvious reason why.  Eventually you break it open and its like the two halves have been ultrasonically welded together.  I have a hopped up RC car that will do this to the battery connector if I'm not militant about limiting run time and stopping the instant the battery starts to die.  I went from a 40 turn motor to a 12 turn.  Still brushed, but its like night and day power wise.  I did what I had to do to beat one of my buddies in an unlimited class, but it proves that any racing is expensive its just a matter of scale.