I've seen a few questions asked about wet blasting on my other favorite forum, SPI. There's two things I've seen the painters mentioned. 1. it's a giant muddy mess if not contained correctly, which honestly it seems like all sandblasting is a giant mess 2. the chemicals that are put on or added to the mixture can interfere with primer/paint adhesion. It is super important to remove or neutralize whatever it put on the car to keep it from flash rusting.

Bunch of threads over on the SPI forums, here's a good one. http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/dustless-blasting.5121/

Im talking about wet sand blasting with like a honda 3600 psi unit along with a sand blaster attachment for the gun. A bucket to hold my blast material. I see the site mention using this tiny little bottle for flash rusting obviously meant for a smaller scale. I did find this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J594B52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_7A31F608P6ENRSEAHR2J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Second  this product talks about after using Evaporust
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3RL1KB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_6YR5R1BNEAMR1HDM44N6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Third also talks about after using Evaporust
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJZIJ24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_2GFW976TPDRKBS9K9W91?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

There's a lot of different media for all types of blasting.  One that easily prevents rust is baking soda.  The downside is it doesn't work well on heavily rusted parts, but you can always start with something more aggressive and finish up with soda. 

Blasting things that don't fit in a cabinet is going to be messy.  Dry blasting creates dust and media goes everywhere.  I don't know if that's better or worse that sludge and water going everywhere.

"One that easily prevents rust is baking soda.  The downside is it doesn't work well on heavily rusted parts, but you can always start with something more aggressive and finish up with soda."

When I had my 69 soda blasted 25 years ago they started with soda, then finished with crushed glass. The glass worked well on the inner trunk floor, but ruined the deck lid finish panel.

"Not to mention soda MUST be neutralized before painting and that is no easy task with all the nooks and crannies."

True story, and a pita.

Thank you cman66 I always kinda wondered the best way to use that stuff I know its available at lowes. Just never used it itsnt it like phosphoric acid or something like that?

My biggest problem area right now that I can see can easily be patched its on corner of the inner structure near the rear glass but seams to be mainly some spot welds one small hole. But the inner part of not sides of the the structure look clean even on the box part looks pretty good. The only area I dont know about is the outside part of the roof structure above the wheel house. Definitely If I help install quarter panels I will definitely suggest pulling the roof when the car looks kinda crust better off in the long run. When I helped install the quarter skins i cleaned up what I could on the roof structure it looked pretty clean but I still need to pull the roof to clean the rest of the roof. Then Pretty much the only thing that I won't need to touch is the cowl but really I probably should atleast pull the Cowl top shouldn't I? After removing my heater box I looked up inside the cowl and its really pretty clean from what I could see. And same goes for what I can see through the grille bars but I do realize there's a decent area you can't see. Anyone here ever try a inspection camera? I guess I could try that then its its good get a spray bomb of some good frame coating with the long straw  and coat the inside the best I can.

Last edited by True74yamaha (6/30/2021 1:47 AM)