Agree with Ron68.  Those are just slightly worn.  Since you have it apart this far, if the rods don't look much worse, why not just stick some new bearings in it?  Be sure to check if they are std or undersized bearings.

Or, just stick it back together with a new rear main seal and never look back.  There is kind of an unwritten rule that goes along with the WYAIT acronym...   If you look at it, replace it.  Lots of times, we do that when it is not necessary.

With the 5.0 I bought for my truck, I tore it down to block, but still pistons, rods, and crank in it.  I had to clean out the water passages whuch were crudded up real bad.  I washed it real good and since the cylinders looked good and it spun real smooth, I just put a main seal in it and did not disassemble further.  All I added extra was some brass freeze plugs in the block.  The engine was a 100k miles Mustang 5.0 roller motor and showed no cylinder wear or excesive crank end play.  For the truck, it will probably last longer than I will.

To remove and check rod bearings, rotate the crank so the one you are working on is sticking out of the block at 6:00 o'clock position, or farthest away from the head.  Remove the nuts and use a wood dowel to hammer the bottom of the piston down about 1/4".  Then you can remove the bearing.  If any wear is evident, it will most likely be on the part of the crank that is visible.  Rotate it around if you wish, but then you will have to retrieve the piston rod from up in the cylinder.  Be sure the bearing tangs fit into the slot they go to, and do not put a bearing back except where it came from, and be sure top and bottom are in same position.

Still, if the engine cylinder looked ok and the thing spins pretty easy by hand, I would not even bother.  Just depends on what level you are trying to achieve with it.  For relatively low HP use, it will last a long time as it is.  Sometimes ABDFI are the hardest words to say...