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So I bought a brand new set of Shelby style trac bars, from a previous owner......he assured me they would fit 67-70.....I trusted him, and didn't do my research, turns out the mounting plate for the Shock Mount/Leaf Spring is smaller. I didn't know ford had 2 different sizes for early Mustangs with 8" diffs.
So what I want to know is,
A: is this info correct, there are different sizes
B: would you keep this set, change your mounts to make the bars work cause it's a cheaper fix and well, you already have the bars----------or would you sell the bars, hopefully break even then get a set to match what you have?
Yours truly in frustration,
Jeff
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Yes, there are different bolt patterns.
I used to have those on my car. If you draw a simple diagram of the fixed points on the car, the front spring eye, the front traction bar mount, the axle centerline and the lower rear pivot point, you will see that the parallelogram you just drew cannot move, or pivot, about any of the corner points without something getting in a terrible bind. For that reason, the fact that they severely limit vertical movement of the spring and axle without binding, I removed them from my car snd now enjoy much better ride quality.
If you are experiencing wheel hop, the solution is a spring that has a better design and is not worn out.
I do not recommend use of the Shelby underride traction bars. They make the ride quality terrible.
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Steve thank you so much for your Response! You're insight and experience is priceless.
But I will have to say I do not follow the parralelogram/binding point ?
On my 69 that I built with performance in mind, I had some really good power coming out of that 351W.....T5 Super Duty and 3.73's. I could not accelerate with spring wrap 🤣. AND that was with installing 5 BAND, slightly stronger than factory Mid Eye Leafs.
I then installed the Shelby Style Undermounted and it was gone, now I didn't notice a difference in ride, but that may have been due to the stiffer Leafs and stronger KYB Shocks?
Can you help explain your prior message? I really like the ride of this 68, it was made with power increases, but nothing radical.....he used a more stick suspension so the comfort is there, it just can't handle the torque
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I concur with MS. When first building my 69 I added the under ride bars. One day when looking at them from the side I noticed that parallelogram Steve mentioned, figured the results he also mentioned, and removed them without ever driving it with them installed. They're still sitting on a shelf till I can figure out a use to repurpose them.
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If you want try “slapper bars”. But an extra 1/2 leaf in the front of the spring pack is less obtrusive.
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Rudi wrote:
If you want try “slapper bars”. But an extra 1/2 leaf in the front of the spring pack is less obtrusive.
Rudi is right-on again! Half leaf in front of the spring pack ...and CLAMP it down with spring clamps...in effect makes the leaf spring a traction bar preventing the spring from wrapping up when you.....
'side step it at 6 grand'!
It'll hook (or break) fer sure!!
6s6
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6sally6 wrote:
Rudi wrote:
If you want try “slapper bars”. But an extra 1/2 leaf in the front of the spring pack is less obtrusive.
Rudi is right-on again! Half leaf in front of the spring pack ...and CLAMP it down with spring clamps...in effect makes the leaf spring a traction bar preventing the spring from wrapping up when you.....
'side step it at 6 grand'!
It'll hook (or break) fer sure!!
6s6
Will this eliminate the Wheel Hop entirely? Mine is extremely violent;
The car has what I'm assuming is a factory style 4 leaf; so adding 1 more band just on the front will fix it all?
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The problem is your four leaf springs are totally worn out. My 66 with a 427 and five speed, 3.50 rear gears and fairly sticky tires has zero wheel hop using a 4.5 leaf, reverse eye spring.
If you install at least a new 4 leaf spring, you won’t have problems.
Bolt-on bandaids are not going to fix your worn out springs.
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MS wrote:
The problem is your four leaf springs are totally worn out. My 66 with a 427 and five speed, 3.50 rear gears and fairly sticky tires has zero wheel hop using a 4.5 leaf, reverse eye spring.
If you install at least a new 4 leaf spring, you won’t have problems.
Bolt-on bandaids are not going to fix your worn out springs.
The Thing is MS, as mentioned earlier......I built my 69 With 5 band mid eye, stiffer than stock and the wheel hop was as if they were the tired originals. I had to put track bars on. Problem solved.
This 68 was a total restore. He installed new 4 band leafs, MASSIVE Violent Wheel Hop.
If I can add a band to just the front section of the rear spring, and it will rectify my problem I will gladly do that.
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e63 amg 0 60
Pretty expen$ive butt-eye GUARANTEE this will hold it!
6s6
Last edited by 6sally6 (10/26/2021 1:56 PM)
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M1Mustang69 wrote:
MS wrote:
The problem is your four leaf springs are totally worn out. My 66 with a 427 and five speed, 3.50 rear gears and fairly sticky tires has zero wheel hop using a 4.5 leaf, reverse eye spring.
If you install at least a new 4 leaf spring, you won’t have problems.
Bolt-on bandaids are not going to fix your worn out springs.
The Thing is MS, as mentioned earlier......I built my 69 With 5 band mid eye, stiffer than stock and the wheel hop was as if they were the tired originals. I had to put track bars on. Problem solved.
This 68 was a total restore. He installed new 4 band leafs, MASSIVE Violent Wheel Hop.
If I can add a band to just the front section of the rear spring, and it will rectify my problem I will gladly do that.
What tires and shocks are you running? Your replacement of springs has not achieved the same results I have enjoyed.
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Hey Steve,
235/60R15 BF GOODRIDGE
KYB (Grey set not white)
I was informed shocks can't help the leaf from wraping
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