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Still figuring out the EFI wiring for my 67 coupe. I was looking for a place to hook the wires to the ignition to be hot during start and run. Took BB1's advice for using a relay and using the pink wire off the switch. Stuck a test light on it and for some reason, it is hot all the time.
I am thinking i screwed up some wiring somewhere. Only thing i can figure out is in replacing the voltage regulator and alternator with a 3G. I tore out the terminal that hooked to the voltage regulator and spliced the yellow and the green, red stripe wires together.
Is this where i messed up?
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The only time the 'pink' wire should be hot is with the ignition switch in the 'on' or 'start' positions.
If you tied the yellow and the red-green wire together you have made pink wire hot all the time (not to mention the ignition coil).
The red-green wire will supply 12v when starting the car. It connects to the pink wire at the firewall connector, and also to the brown wire going to the "I" terminal of the starter solenoid.
When the starter solenoid is energized, the "I" terminal is energized and the brown wire provides 12v to the coil, when the starter solenoid drops out, the voltage source (about 9v) is from the pink wire that comes from the ignition switch.
Also, as the pink wire supplies about 9 volts (with the charging system providing over 13v), I wouldn't use it to drive a relay as you're at a point where the relay may not pick up.
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Do you have a stock alternator or a 3g alternator, if 3g you can use the wire from it for your EFI.
That is the wire I used for mine.
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I used factory wiring harness from a 2001 mustang with v6.
There were only 3 connections:
1) Battery (2 fusible links in one lug) …Battery + at start solenoid
2) Yellow/white…Battery + at start solenoid
3) Green/red…”I” terminal at start solenoid
I left the quick disconnect on 2 and 3 from factory.
I also ran a separate ground wire from engine block to alternator case.
The yellow/white and the fusible links are on LH side of picture.
Green/red at bottom of foxbody solenoid.
I used the 2 solenoid setup like my 92 donor.
My 65 had factory 5 gauge panel for reference information.
I removed the voltage regulator and wiring back to fender harness.
My notes are on the original wiring for green/red to voltage regulator.
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Test your red and green, That should have constant 12v ign and start.
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Unhooked the yellow and the green-red wire. Pink wire only hot on start and run now. Went ahead and hooked a relay to it. Measured 12.3 volts where I hooked on as close to the switch as possible.
I moved my battery to the trunk and have a geared starter, so i deleted the solenoid. Made my own fuseblock and used a mega fuse between the battery and the alternator. Ran the wire for the alternator from a fused, switched block from the interior of the car. Have most everything sorted out except one blinker is not working.
Last edited by Alan (11/07/2021 5:19 PM)
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Allen I'm not sure where you crossed these wires but the Yellow wire is 12 volt battery voltage. It feeds the ignition switch for constant 12 volt positive. When the ignition switch is in run or start the red/green is connected to the yellow 12 volt positive. If you tied these 2 wires together your run/start will always be tied to 12 volt positive.
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