Is the 6al grounded directly to the battery not just the chassis? Some 6als are known to be very sensitive to this.

I don't know MS.......

BUT like I said, when I had the ready to run Solo, I used the Coil Wire.  Then I installed the Ready to Run with the 6AL, I made a Y-adapter and used the Coil Wire (ignition +). Everything Worked.......now using the Billet Dist. It only starts with the Key in the 'On' position, and using a trigger switch to the coil. SO STRANGE!

6AL has direct Pos and Neg right to the Battery!

I don’t have either system, but as for troubleshooting…

Have you tried the previous distributor and see what happens?
That’s what I would do.
Go back to last known good setup.

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Last edited by Nos681 (11/23/2021 5:51 AM)

M1Mustang69 wrote:

M1Mustang69 wrote:

I don't know MS.......

BUT like I said, when I had the ready to run Solo, I used the Coil Wire. Then I installed the Ready to Run with the 6AL, I made a Y-adapter and used the Coil Wire (ignition +). Everything Worked.......now using the Billet Dist. It only starts with the Key in the 'On' position, and using a trigger switch to the coil. SO STRANGE!

6AL has direct Pos and Neg right to the Battery!

 



This is exactly how I'm setup and wired......

I did this to my 69 many years ago, and I'm assuming I used the "resister wire coil + as it describes.....but maybe not? Is that the solution? Run a new dedicated switch wire???

Or has something failed, like the starter solenoid, or a break in "somewhere"????

I have the same MSD 6AL box, MSD billet distributor, and MSD Blaster coil, it is wired per this diagram, with no issues.  I did eliminate the ignition resistor wire and provide constant 12v to the coil.  I do not have the starter solenoid ‘I’ terminal connected to the ignition coil.  The MSD box “Heavy Red” wire is connected to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid, and the ‘Heavy Black’ is grounded at the fender apron.
 
Your situation is very strange as the coil gets full 12v power from the starter solenoid ‘I’ terminal when the starter is energized, and reverts to about 9v when the ignition switch is back in the ‘on’ position and the starter solenoid has dropped out.  I suggest starting by checking the voltage at the coil with the ignition switch in the 'start' and 'on' positions.  You can also try using a jumper wire from the battery and connect to the positive coil terminal, try to start with the ignition switch.  If it starts, there may be something wrong with the ignition switch, or the wiring associated with the ignition switch.  Make sure the MSD box ground has a good clean connection. 

 

I agree with Dan go back to where it worked and see if it still works. At least you have a base, if it works good. If not, maybe you accidently knocked a wire somewhere. 

One question, when you say it won't start; do you mean it won't crank or won't fire up.

The coil must be powered from the solenoid, BACKFED from solenoid.

Thank you everyone!

After doing all of what was suggested, I happened upong the problem.

So for starters, I'm not convinced I have a "Resister Wire". The Red/Green Coil wire reads a nice 12v and the test light is pretty bright.

The problem was the after market Coil/Temp Gauge Wire/Oil Pressure Wire Harness.  The one responsible for the coil seems to have been mouled deeper than the others, so contact wasn't right, or even there.
I was able to use electronic plyers and slowly pull it up........

Now unfortunately I'm in the process of Swapping Carburetors and Can't Test the bloody thing, but stay tuned