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MS wrote:
Just curious…
I have used my beadblaster for a long time with no filtration and a water overflowing water separator (so lots of moisture). I have never experienced any ill results. Maybe I am just blasting/cleaning stuff and you are trying to achieve some different level of cleanliness for some reason? Maybe your humidity levels are out of this world? (Typically 80% RH where I live)
Inquiring minds gotta know
Just me over thinking I guess. After reading that for a desiccant filter to do anything I would have to use a coalescing filter or a carbon filter. Sorry I am totally up for any suggestions on a unit for oil contaminants. Im sure my moisture trap will be more than enough. When I did quite a bit of sand blasting at this Mustang Restoration Shop in SLC I dunno if it was just a faulty unit or what but it always clogged and seemed to have moisture come out of the nozzel at times. The unit I used at work I think was basically like a harborfreight 110lb unit. Thats really neat that you Engineered compressed air systems by the way.
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Rudi wrote:
Wow really clean work inspired me to build my own.
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I like two ideas mentioned. Screen under the glass and a separate compressed air nozzle.
Does the screen keep sand from hitting the glass and also not fill up with sand? Can you still get to the glass to clean it?
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The dust off nozzle is genius. I'll be incorporating that into my cabinet. I need new gloves for it anyway. Blasting hardware takes a toll on the fingers of the gloves.
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MS wrote:
I like two ideas mentioned. Screen under the glass and a separate compressed air nozzle.
Does the screen keep sand from hitting the glass and also not fill up with sand? Can you still get to the glass to clean it?
The under glass screen I used was a small enough mesh to prevent the media from getting through and damaging the glass yet still allows vision through it.
The black screw down retention knobs allow me to take the glass off to clean it. If needed I just use the air nozzle to blow the screen and glass clear from the inside.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
The dust off nozzle is genius. I'll be incorporating that into my cabinet. I need new gloves for it anyway. Blasting hardware takes a toll on the fingers of the gloves.
And it hurts like hell when it does blow through!
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red351 wrote:
I took an old window a/c unit made it into a dryer for the sand blast cabinet and painting
I would sure like to know more on the AC dryer, sounds interesting.
I curently (19 yrs ) have a 60 gal home depo Camble Hofmen compresor. rebuilt the head twice in that time. Runs on full syntic oil only. It has a HF auto drain on the botttom that works well. The air goes up to the ceiling and through 20' x 1/2 steel pipe along the ceiling falling at a 1/4" ft along the ceiling it drops into a 1-1/2" pipe and goes down to the floor and back up to the ceiling (16' total pipe) where it goes back to 1/2" and goes out to feed the outlets. At the bottom of that 1-1/2 pipe / H 2 0 trap there is a drain valve plumbed outside, I just open it from time to time to exit the built up water. All outlets come off the top of the pipe then drop down the wall. My baster has a HF water trap that never seams to have much and two small haligon lamps inside. It has never failed me even in the hot summers of oregon and running for 8hrs straight.
Last edited by Cab4word67 (11/30/2021 11:48 AM)
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^^^^^^ This except no water in my lines.
Last edited by Rudi (11/30/2021 11:28 AM)
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Thank you everyone for your responses. I ended up buying a Hayden 1284 has very similar specs to that of the 1290 as well as a few other goodies. I decided to just buy a cheaper 3 stage pneumatic air compressor filtration system on amazon for $178.00 instead of the higher priced Tsunami unit.
List of purchased items to build my compressor. Im still not fully sure if I'm going to buy a air receiver or older 80 gallon tank and strip it down to the tank or not.
Here is a list of my purchased items so far to build my air compressor.
Hayden Automotive 1284 Heavy Duty Oil Cooler
SUNROAD 12AN 10Ft Universal Stainless Steel/Nylon Braided Fuel Oil Line Hose
1/2" NPT HEAVY DUTY Industrial Grade Filter Regulator Coalescing Desiccant Dryer System For Compressed Air Lines, Metal Bowls, Great For Paint Spray And Plasma Cutter (AUTO DRAIN)
New 1/4" NPT 190 PSI Air Compressor Safety Relief Pressure Valve, Tank Pop Off
ICT Billet Straight -12AN Flare Male to 3/4"NPT Pipe Adapter Fitting 12 AN Bare Aluminum AN816-12-12A
Honda Genuine 16100-Z0L-862 Carburetor BB65A B OEM
HIWOWSPORT 2PCS 12 AN Oil Fuel Hose Fitting End Straight 45 Degree Black (12AN-45)
HIWOWSPORT 2PCS 4/6/8/10 AN Oil Fuel Hose Fitting End Straight 0/90/180 Degree Black (12AN-90)
HIWOWSPORT 2PCS 12 AN Oil Fuel Hose Fitting End Straight 0 Degree Black (12AN-0)
Large Ceramic Sandblaster Nozzle Assembly: C1 (1/8" ID) Nozzle Tip, Steel Ball Valve & Holder- Longer-Lasting Professional Abrasive
Blasting Nozzle Tip Replacement
On a side note I wonder why the black stainless AN hose is cheaper to buy than silver finish.
Not to bad I'm less than the price of an 80 gallon. I do seem to come accross 80 gallon air compressor tanks quite often. I was debating on buying this campbell hausfeld 35 cfm at 175psi gas compressor and scrap it for parts. And make a dual air compressor and gas engine compressor head unit and then hook it up to a air receiver. Seems like it would've been a smarter idea. I guess I'm only out the 60 dollars it took to buy my 30 gallon horizontal tank I just purchased.
Last edited by True74yamaha (12/03/2021 5:45 PM)
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Cab4word67 wrote:
red351 wrote:
I took an old window a/c unit made it into a dryer for the sand blast cabinet and painting
I would sure like to know more on the AC dryer, sounds interesting.
I curently (19 yrs ) have a 60 gal home depo Camble Hofmen compresor. rebuilt the head twice in that time. Runs on full syntic oil only. It has a HF auto drain on the botttom that works well. The air goes up to the ceiling and through 20' x 1/2 steel pipe along the ceiling falling at a 1/4" ft along the ceiling it drops into a 1-1/2" pipe and goes down to the floor and back up to the ceiling (16' total pipe) where it goes back to 1/2" and goes out to feed the outlets. At the bottom of that 1-1/2 pipe / H 2 0 trap there is a drain valve plumbed outside, I just open it from time to time to exit the built up water. All outlets come off the top of the pipe then drop down the wall. My baster has a HF water trap that never seams to have much and two small haligon lamps inside. It has never failed me even in the hot summers of oregon and running for 8hrs straight.
Sounds like quite the set up also sounds similar to mine. On the 1/2" to 1 1/2" pipe transition, did you be chance incorporate a Franzinator? I've read they work well at coolling the compressed air and also work as a water trap. Would it be possible to take some photos of your set up for inspiration to my build?
Last edited by True74yamaha (12/05/2021 3:59 PM)
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