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Are you running a stock mustang Convertor? I have a 306 with a E cam. I have stock heads with a set of shorties. I'm also running a old school GT40 tubular intake. I'm wondering if I should have changed my Convertor. Forgot to mention 3:73 gears. Am I leaving anything on the table as far as drive ability with the original fox body Convertor.
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I'm running a stock 89 302 HO with shorties and 3.00 gears. I have an 82 AOD with a shift kit and a summit racing 2500 stall converter. I bought the tranny already setup from a guy on craigs list. he put the shift kit in and then decided to sell it an go with a t5. This setup handles the car pretty good and with the 3.00 gears it will still catch a 2nd gear scratch!
not sure if this helps with your question just sharing my experience
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Thanks. Yes it does. My car just seems lazy down low. Get it above 2500 and hang on.
May take a look at a Convertor
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And when you burn the AOD up, get a 4R70W.
Tubo
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GT Tubular INTAKE?!..........Convertor ain't the problem(IMHO) More rear gear will solve the problem. Maybe advance that cam 4/6 degrees....that will pick up bottom end too.
6sally6
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Tubo, tell me a little more about the 4wr70? What cars, years are they from? Why are those better than AOD?
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They are the last of the AOD family, all the weak areas & bugs are fixed. Electrically operated vs hydraulicly. Needs a computer, not that big a deal.
Follow the link read the blue tabs on the left AOD & AODE/4R70W Ya won't AOD anymore.
You want one from a, 99-04 V-6 Mustang, same bell housing as Windsor.
Tubo
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FFR3247 wrote:
Are you running a stock mustang Convertor? I have a 306 with a E cam. I have stock heads with a set of shorties. I'm also running a old school GT40 tubular intake. I'm wondering if I should have changed my Convertor. Forgot to mention 3:73 gears. Am I leaving anything on the table as far as drive ability with the original fox body Convertor.
I have a 5.0 EFI with AOD and 3.55 gear. The off line performance on ours seems pretty dead also butt (TS&T) I'm still running the torque converter from the Lincoln TC donor car.
I was pretty impressed with Terry's FB. As he stated above, it barks second gear pretty good and it's pretty quick off the line....much better than ours.
Keep us posted as to how it works if you change. Our car is apart and I'm thinking of going to a higher stall TC also...WIAAIT.
BB
Last edited by Bullet Bob (10/22/2013 11:45 AM)
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Dumb question alert!!
I don't understand the concept of "stall". Would someone be able to explain it in fairly simple terms?
The reason I ask is that I installed a 2500 rpm stall converter on my C4 with a 347 stroker. I have been told that the stall is not high enough and makes the car more difficult (sluggish?) to drive around in stop and go. What effect does a higher or lower rating have and what other factors come into play (carb, cam, rear end, etc.)?
Didn't mean to hijack this post but it seemed appropriate.
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IN this case Rick Google is yer Buddy, more than one of us. Cos tha answer is rather complex.
Fer example;
Tubo
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I had a custom 12 inch lock up converter made for the AOD in my 68. The builder needed to know a whole lot of info about the engine and vehicle. The questionaire was about two pages long.
If I remember correctly he said it ended up being about 2400 stall
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Ok I will keep ya posted. I went with a custom Convertor and will prob go with another valve body too. Convertor builder has built many converters for me and knows his stuff. My last car was a stock suspension car that went 5:30 in the eighth. He asked me if I remember my first nitrous pass. He said the Convertor will have that same feeling. He said the stock Convertor just sucks the power.
Will have it installed prob next week.
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Ok Convertor and valvebody installed.
Wow what a difference. I know from my racing days that a Convertor can make of break the combo but had I known the stock Convertor would kill the power this bad I would have done this from the beginning. Words can't describe how much if a difference this made. Best money I've spent in a while.
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