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I used VHT epoxy roll bar satin black spray cans, same way I painted my 66 over 20 years ago. Looks pretty good. I turned the shop heat to 74 degrees and will let it cure all week since we will be experiencing a freeze during that time. Meanwhile, I will be installing the borgeson box, the new cable clutch system and rebuilding the front end. And THEN, I can install the new 331.
STILL have not received my fan shroud, so I guess it just won’t have one for a while.
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Looks real good butt (TS&T), I swear you always touted Rustoleum 7777 as the go-to paint for under hood finishes. Which is why I used it and it works great. Nice finish, easy touch-up. This is the first time in my eleven years here that I've heard you say anything about VHT. I do know that I used their header paint years ago and it wouldn't last at all.
BB1
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Nice, looks to be coming along just fine.
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Rustoleum changed their formula. Since I was not doing a 100% strip of the old finish, I was concerned that it is more prone to fish-eyes. The VHT works well, sprays smoothly and dries quick.
I recently used rustoleum on two separate occasions and the satin black came out glossier than I thought it should. That isvthe main reason I switched. But either will do the job quite well. You just have to wait longer for rustoleum to dry.
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MS wrote:
I used VHT epoxy roll bar satin black spray cans, same way I painted my 66 over 20 years ago. Looks pretty good. I turned the shop heat to 74 degrees and will let it cure all week since we will be experiencing a freeze during that time. Meanwhile, I will be installing the borgeson box, the new cable clutch system and rebuilding the front end. And THEN, I can install the new 331.
STILL have not received my fan shroud, so I guess it just won’t have one for a while.
Whoa whoa whoa... slow down Paco. Tell us about the new clutch system for the 69s por favor.
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Since I'd never really heard about the VHT roll bar paint, I did a search for it. I also found the VHT Calilper paint. The caliper paint list chemical resistance while the roll bar chassis paint does not. So question, why not choose the chemical resistant caliper paint? It also comes in satin black.
Edit: Do you think the caliper paint needs to be high temperature cured before becoming chemical resistant? I can't really tell by the limited information I found.
Last edited by Rufus68 (2/02/2022 6:44 PM)
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Heck, I was not trying to get too scientific about the whole thing. I just picked something I had used 20 years ago that held up fine.
From experience, I use rustoleum on master cylinders. While not totally brake fluid resistant, it doesn't just give up if it gets wet. It works great on engine bays. The new SATIN is just too glossy for my taste. I reserve the right to change my mind at any given moment!
Last edited by MS (2/02/2022 7:19 PM)
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Looks Awesome
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MS wrote:
Heck, I was not trying to get too scientific about the whole thing. I just picked something I had used 20 years ago that held up fine.
From experience, I use rustoleum on master cylinders. While not totally brake fluid resistant, it doesn't just give up if it gets wet. It works great on engine bays. The new SATIN is just too glossy for my taste. I reserve the right to change my mind at any given moment!
How many cans you think it would take to do bottom of car on a 65 and how many on engine bay...they are 11 oz cans I believe.
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MS wrote:
Heck, I reserve the right to change my mind at any given moment!
Looks good Steve but I thought only women had that right, just saying!
Probably got myself in trouble for that one.
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Women do have that right. Only, GUYS have to explain themselves afterward.
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I stopped by and grabbed 5 cans today.
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MS wrote:
Only, GUYS have to explain themselves afterward.
TRUTH
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Looks Great! Post some pics of your clutch cable system!
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Steve69 wrote:
Looks Great! Post some pics of your clutch cable system!
I think Steve is avoiding us
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He should patent it before someone copies it.
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I should have the 69-70 cable kit installed under the dash tomorrow, but am waiting on a new cable to arrive.
Plan is to use Ford cable like the other MustangSteve systems but there is no room for the same style quadrant. So design was from scratch. I have the entire cowl and firewall cut out of a 70 Cougar on my workbench to simplify the design prototype process.
I have to get the engine/tranny installed before I can verify everything fits/works properly. Then road test for a while.
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I think that looks damn good for rattle cans. I use the VHT satin epoxy on all sorts of small parts but hadn't considered doing a whole engine compartment with it. I think I will use it on my 69 when the time come.
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Yesterday I determined my new borgeson complete power steering conversion did not include the rag joint adapter that goes on the steering box. So, had to spend another $74 plus shipping to order one.
More delays…
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Bearing Bob wrote:
Steve69 wrote:
Looks Great! Post some pics of your clutch cable system!
I think Steve is avoiding us
LOL I bought some JBA shorty headers last year. I need to do a Z bar relocation, cable or hydraulic clutch system to install them. So I have to figure something out soon. I keep going back and forth on Rebuilt T5 pr TKX transmission. Then throw in 331 Stroker or Stock HO crate engine... To many choices and not enough time.
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I have a 351W with JBA shorty headers and the Borgeson PS. I had to cut the bottom of the steering tube and put a dent in the JBA to clear the steering box. It is a small one that looks good cause I used a 2 inch pipe between the BFH and the header tube. The Z bar had to be replaced with one that has the top arm the goes up then over the box. I had to reform both arms a little for every thing to line up. If you have power brakes you'll need to bend the clutch rod also if it is the pancake type booster.
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The cable clutch will eliminate all that z-bar and extra hardware.
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