| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
1 of 1
Offline
I am trying to strip the anodized coating off the hood and grille aluminum trim on the 69 coupe. Easy-Off oven cleaner did absolutely nothing after repeatedly spraying it for four hours. (In 70 degree temperature)
I sanded it with some 180 on a rubber block after removing the dents. That took it off, but is alot of work, and will require follow-up with 400 and maybe finer.
My plan is to get it all cleaned up and have it powdercoated in chrome-type silver.
Anybody found a way to remove it easily?
Offline
On the trims I did not replace I used 1500- 2000 wet/dry silicon carbide sand paper to remove the anodize and then a ten inch buffingwheel going to lesser and lesser grades of polishing compounds to finish them to a bright lustre.
To prevent further corroding I shot a clear acrylic on them. The rattle can acrylic seemed to dull the high shine and made the trim look like it was original.
In the many times my car was judged at MCA events no points were ever lost because of non original looking trim.
Offline
I have a technique but it is nasty $#!? When I am anodizing parts I somtimes need to redo it. I dip the parts in a solution of lye and water. 1 gallon to 3 oz. It will take the anodizing off quickly but it will also eat the aluminum so don't leave it in there very long. I also use it as an aluminum etch prior to anodizing.
Offline
Thanks, guys
I wound up sanding with 180, which removes the finish pretty quick as long as fresh sandpaper and water is used.
Followed with 400, then 1500. I plan to rattle can some clear on it as a finish to keep the aluminum from tarnishing.
Only problem I have now is it looks like the fenders have to come off in order to get the left and right side trim off. Maybe some 69 owners can let me know an easier way.
I am pretty happy with the straightened aluminum trim. One advantage to watching Overhaulin’ is you can actually learn a little here and there. You cannot tell where it was dented.
Online!
Guess I got lucky with the EZ Off. The pieces that laughed EZ Off were the lower and side grille surrounds. For those I used a drum flapper on a drill.
I had one C shaped outer trim piece that had a big dent. Figured trying to straighten wouldn't hurt. Like yours you can't see where the damage was located.
Last edited by Bearing Bob (2/04/2022 5:21 PM)
Offline
Small picking hammers are available for smoothing stainless and aluminum bright trim.
There used to be a fellow around my home town that excelled at restoring trim.
Offline
Bearing Bob wrote:
Guess I got lucky with the EZ Off. The pieces that laughed EZ Off were the lower and side grille surrounds. For those I used a drum flapper on a drill.
I had one C shaped outer trim piece that had a big dent. Figured trying to straighten wouldn't hurt. Like yours you can't see where the damage was located.
Where are the attaching points for those C shaped side pieces? I see one stud at bottom and one (hard to get to) at the top. Any more than that and pulling the fender end cap would be necessary? Or is there a trick? I don’t want to sand them in place. Both of mine are nice condition. They just don’t match the refurbed bottom piece.
I had bought a new lower moulding. It was stainless and not shaped correctly. Figured a reworked original was better.
I liked the BB2 satin-look trim on your 69. Seems to be right at home on that car.
Online!
Thanks Steve, I too like the satin finish. Only cost is some elbow grease.
Oy, R&Iing those outer C moldings is tough, but doable. There are 3, the top 2 can be accessed from above, the bottom one from thru the wheelhouse.
The top nut is accessed thru this opening.
The middle has been the most difficult for me, and ya get to it below the ledge.
The bottom nut holds the C molding and the center V molding, and is the easiest to get to from below and thru the wheelhouse with the tire removed. You probably know, but the plastic front wheelhouse shield needs to be removed.
These are the top 2 from behind.
upload
Offline
Thanks for the pics. Thinking those C mouldings might just have to stay right where they are for now.
Offline
This is how my lower grille moulding turned out. It was dented and dinged. This is painted with rustoleum CHROME and GLOSS CLEARCOAT. Not too far different than the old anodized C pieces. I think I will do all four pieces like this and let it go until the car gets a paint job someday.
The streaks are reflection from overhead lights. The fact that they will reflect something is a good thing!
Offline
Looks pretty good to me.
1 of 1
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |