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I have an ongoing issue with the paint pitting and blistering on my original headlight fender extensions. I had the car painted in 2003 and eventually they started pitting and blistering. I had them repainted by the same guy a number of years later and eventually they started pitting and blistering again.
Most recently I took the headlight fender extensions into another body shop to be stripped back to bare metal and be repainted. The body shop has just advised me that they think the casting is degrading and this is what is causing the pitting and blistering of the paint.
The body shop had them for about a week and tried three times with painting them and an epoxy primer/sealer was used.
Has anyone else had this issue? Am I faced with purchasing some reproductions?
Last edited by Toploader (2/01/2022 6:25 PM)
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Try bead blasting and then zinc chromate, works great on corroded aluminum aircraft parts. Might be the same on pot metal.
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Rudi wrote:
Try bead blasting and then zinc chromate, works great on corroded aluminum aircraft parts. Might be the same on pot metal.
I wonder if treating it with Alodine would help stop the degradation, Then the zinc chromate? How about phosphoric acid then the zinc chromate?
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Thanks for the replies.The body shop tried three times with them and as best I know, they prepared the cast metal as best they could.
Does anyone have experience with the reproductions?
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Pot metal seems to corrode jut like aluminum, because of that I would agree with Rudi and Ron 68. You need to cover the alodine with paint or it will still corrode. Paint the whole thing inside and out.
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HudginJ3 wrote:
Pot metal seems to corrode jut like aluminum, because of that I would agree with Rudi and Ron 68. You need to cover the alodine with paint or it will still corrode. Paint the whole thing inside and out.
This has been done already.
I think there is a reaction between the painting process and the cast metal.
It's an issue that will keep happening I think.
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Has anyone else had this problem? It's the first I've heard of it.
Online!
I've changed out several of them with no paint problems.
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Mine are originals, and the car has been repainted, if there was an issue, it was never mentioned to me by the painter.
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Apparently it's a thing... I am being told that the cast metal gets contaminated and then you have issues.
Apparently you can't use bondo on them as moisture gets trapped and things like that.
I've chatted to a couple of other Mustang owners and they tell me it's happened to them as well and one has the same issue on his rear quarter extensions.
I'm not a paint and panel guy, so I'm at the mercy of what the experts tell me.
On my car, the issue has been happening for the past 18 years or so and it's getting worse. The body shop I went to has guys that work on older cars and they reckon I need to get new fender extensions.
The reputation for reproduction parts is just bad, so I don't know what to do.
Last edited by Toploader (2/02/2022 4:11 PM)
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Toploader wrote:
I have an ongoing issue with the paint pitting and blistering on my original headlight fender extensions. I had the car painted in 2003 and eventually they started pitting and blistering. I had them repainted by the same guy a number of years later and eventually they started pitting and blistering again.
Most recently I took the headlight fender extensions into another body shop to be stripped back to bare metal and be repainted. The body shop has just advised me that they think the casting is degrading and this is what is causing the pitting and blistering of the paint.
The body shop had them for about a week and tried three times with painting them and an epoxy primer/sealer was used.
Has anyone else had this issue? Am I faced with purchasing some reproductions?
which one are you needing?
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Toploader - if you go the reproduction route, remember these early 64 1/2 fender extensions are different from later models ... if you're interested in keeping it original.
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Out of curiosity, where was the car built?
Where did it live most of it’s life?
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We used to "treat" diecast parts with a solution and vacuum process to make them "solid" enough. A tub of solution that completely covered the parts would be cycled to high vacuum levels several times until all the bubbles quit coming. The solution had then filled all the tiny voids in the metal. I don't have the formula for the solution around but if you research the process, it is probably available. The process was used on a lot of parts for hydraulic pumps, motors, and valves. It improved resistance to corrosion as well as porosity.
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BobE wrote:
Toploader - if you go the reproduction route, remember these early 64 1/2 fender extensions are different from later models ... if you're interested in keeping it original.
Wow, I never knew that. What's the difference?
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I think I will roll the dice and get some reproductions.
I won't throw these out, but the hassle factor with trying to fix the old die-cast and there still being no guarantees... Its not worth it in my opinion.
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Toploader wrote:
BobE wrote:
Toploader - if you go the reproduction route, remember these early 64 1/2 fender extensions are different from later models ... if you're interested in keeping it original.
Wow, I never knew that. What's the difference?
Funny story, I had read years ago, and saw pictures that were supposed to show the difference, but I really couldn't tell the difference. It was only a couple of years ago while at a local cruise a guy pointed out that I have one 64 1/2 on one side and a later one on the other side. I had had several of the extensions saved over the years and had used the best two I had when I put the car together. Anyway, for me, it doesn't matter ... and I'm not changing either one.
The picture of the passenger side extension is the ‘early’ one, you can see how it folds down a bit, along the light line, towards the grill. The driver’s side is flat in that area.
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