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I am going to pull the 3rd member of my 9 inch rear end. Taking out the 4.30's and putting in some 3.70s. Rear end came with the car and PO put the Currie trac lock in. I have a set of Strange gears to go back in. Probably have about 3 - 4000 miles on the bearings. Rear end is from a 68 Cougar.
What will i need for installation kit?
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What ever you do don’t use a crush sleeve, use a solid spacer and shims, more work but a better job in the end.
Maybe all you need is new seals.
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Is there a carrier break based on ratio with the 9"? I'd be sure the gears and carrier will work. In some rears the carriers change right around a 410 ratio. As ratios increase the pinion gets smaller and at some point in some rears they move the ring gear flange toward the pinion so you still have adjustment for backlash. I know GM does this, but can't recall on the 9".
You could in theory reuse the bearings. Of course that also assumes you can get the pinion bearings off without damage.
I'll second a solid spacer over a crush sleeve.
Otherwise a new pinion nut (use the old one until you get the spacer set, then use the new one for final assembly). Pinion support and yoke seals. An assortment of pinion support shims. I'm assuming you have all the tools.
I've no experience with Strange gears. I'd poke around for reviews if you didn't already. Bad experiences with a variety of other gears over the years have led me to exclusively use Yukon gears.
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I'd worry about damaging the pinion bearing during removal. The carrier bearings should be good.
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Remember the “friction modifier” for the Currie traction lock.
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Richmond sells installation kits that Summit, Jegs, etc offers. You'll need to know the carrier bearing size.
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If you are going to reuse the pinion bearing buy one of these tools to remove it damage free.
I’d get a pinion seal, a pinion shim kit, a couple crush sleeves or a crush sleeve eliminator kit and go for it. It may be cheaper to forgo reusing the pinion bearing and just buy a new one (and race). The clamshell type puller isn’t cheap, but is is the hot ticket if you think you may be doing more rear end work down the road.
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Bentworker wrote:
If you are going to reuse the pinion bearing buy one of these tools to remove it damage free.
I’d get a pinion seal, a pinion shim kit, a couple crush sleeves or a crush sleeve eliminator kit and go for it. It may be cheaper to forgo reusing the pinion bearing and just buy a new one (and race). The clamshell type puller isn’t cheap, but is is the hot ticket if you think you may be doing more rear end work down the road.
If you go the crush sleeve route, you'll only need to install the pinion bearings once. If you go the the solid spacer route, you may need to try a few differnt spacers to get the correct setting. Either way, I think a local shop w/a hydraulic press would be less expansive than purchasing this tool. Especially, if you're planning on doing this only once. Also, hydraulic presses are available from Harbor Freight for about the same cost, and will have many other uses.
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@ BobE
That tool isn’t for installing bearings, it is for removing them damage free. Trying to get an inner bearing off a pinion, or a bearing off a carrier damage free is tricky business. That tool does it without issue. Pretty much a must have if you are setting up a Dana style axle. On the Dana axles you have to pull the carrier bearings to install / remove shims to adjust backlash. Overall it is pretty slick, but not inexpensive. Makes a good tool to have for your local gear head group to share or trade around for other speciality tools…
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Bentworker wrote:
@ BobE
That tool isn’t for installing bearings, it is for removing them damage free. Trying to get an inner bearing off a pinion, or a bearing off a carrier damage free is tricky business. That tool does it without issue. Pretty much a must have if you are setting up a Dana style axle. On the Dana axles you have to pull the carrier bearings to install / remove shims to adjust backlash. Overall it is pretty slick, but not inexpensive. Makes a good tool to have for your local gear head group to share or trade around for other speciality tools…
Alternately you can just make a set of setup bearings. You grind the ID of the inner race until its a slip fit. You get the backlash, etc. correct and then press on the real bearings. Bearings are made to absurd tolerances, like 0.000001", so any difference between the setup bearings and the real bearings will be so small as to be unmeasurable. This works for pinion shims on 8.8 rears, GM 10 & 12 bolt rears, etc. I've never set up a rear any other way. Initially I checked backlash and pattern setup vs. real, but there was no difference. After a couple dozen with none coming back making noise I consider it a sound method.
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I have a press, got the pinion bearing of with no trouble. Used a bearing separator. It had a crush sleeve in the pinion. Have to order the solid spacer kit and seal kit with new nuts.
PO put a drain plug in the rear. Afraid i am going to knock it off with the 1/2 mile of gravel i have, so i am going to weld it shut.
Pulled the nuts off the u-bolts on the rear end and found one of the shock mount had started to crack in half. I guess it thought 55 years old was enough.
Last edited by Alan (2/24/2022 6:44 PM)
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Dan
It already leaks, just had a washer and some rtv on it. Only 1/2" hole in 3/16" material, so it should not be too hard to weld shut.
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