69 and up used them as a voltage regulator gutter

MS wrote:

Under the dash, I removed the pink resistance wire and replaced it with a copper wire from the COIL side of the ignition switch all the way to the plug on the engine side of the firewall. That way, stock wiring harness feeds to the coil which is mounted under the AC compressor.

I'm curious, just how did you replace the pink wire to the 'engine side' of the firewall?  Did you modify the stock firewall connector to get to the engine side of this connector, or ?   
 

MS wrote:

BobE wrote:

MS wrote:

Under the dash, I removed the pink resistance wire and replaced it with a copper wire from the COIL side of the ignition switch all the way to the plug on the engine side of the firewall. That way, stock wiring harness feeds to the coil which is mounted under the AC compressor.

I'm curious, just how did you replace the pink wire to the 'engine side' of the firewall?  Did you modify the stock firewall connector to get to the engine side of this connector, or ?   
 

Luckily, on a 69-70, the pink wire is apparently not molded into the big firewall grommet. It slid right out, followed by the new wire sliding right in. I cut open the three pin connector where the engine harness plugs in so I could solder the new wire to one of the pins.

 OK, thank you.  I had investigated removing the resistance wire on my 65 from the firewall connector and replacing it but thought I’d ruin the entire connector doing so. 

 

Doesn’t the 65-66 cars have a non resistor pigtail at firewall?
Then going into interior and butt connector connects to the pink resistance wire to ignition switch.

That’s what I recall.

If a failure occurs, the resistance wire can just be replaced.
I know mine was wrapped inside the wiring harness.

MS wrote:

Luckily, on a 69-70, the pink wire is apparently not molded into the big firewall grommet. It slid right out, followed by the new wire sliding right in. I cut open the three pin connector where the engine harness plugs in so I could solder the new wire to one of the pins.

I had heard that the resistor wire couldn't be soldered because of the alloy of the wire- the solder doesn't stick to it? It has to be crimped into a terminal.

Last edited by Mach1Driver (3/07/2022 3:08 PM)

Nos681 wrote:

Doesn’t the 65-66 cars have a non resistor pigtail at firewall?
Then going into interior and butt connector connects to the pink resistance wire to ignition switch.

That’s what I recall.

If a failure occurs, the resistance wire can just be replaced.
I know mine was wrapped inside the wiring harness.

I didn’t unwrap the bundle of wires that contains the ‘pink’ resistor wire from the ignition switch to firewall connector so I wasn’t sure if the ‘resistor’ portion was only a small section or the entire length.  Although, when I had dealt with resistor wires in other non-vehicle applications, the resistor portion is only a short section spliced into the circuit.

 

Pink resistance wire is over 2’ long. On the 69, it is routed into a different leg of the interior wiring harness and folds back on top of itself just to use up the required length.  It is easiest to just leave the disconnected wire in place, but the WYAIT monster had me in his grasp.  To top it all off, now I have new black carpet and a console on order with the Shelby gauge pod so I can add a voltmeter and either a temperature or oil pressure gauge.

lowercasesteve wrote:

MS wrote:

I removed 100% of the pink wire.

66-66 is totally different. The firewall plug is crimped to the brown wire, which feeds 12v from solenoid to that connection, inside the firewall plug.

On my '66 there is about 2 inches of regular wire coming out of the ignition switch before the resister wire begins.  I tapped in there to get a switched, 12 volt capability.
 

I did the same thing, but ran this new wire to the coil, bypassing the original firewall connector.