Mainly, the complaint is all about modifications done by someone who owned it during the time when it left my hands, and today.
It used to have an original 69 stereo in it. That was removed and replaced with a bunch of very amateur taped up mess and an aftermarket stereo wired in
Always ON.

I do agree this is much easier than working on a 66 that has no removable dash.

Electrical is typically THE most hacked together mess in an old car.  It constantly amazes me how many guys actually know how to work on cars, but simply don't understand electrical or proper procedures for repairing or modifying it. 

Bullet Bob wrote:

Quit complainin'...I'd do wiring on that setup 10 times rather than laying on my back, trying to stuff everything up under the dash of a 66 again.  That one can be done with a tape measure and a sheet of plywood while sitting comfortably on a stool....measure it out, lay it out...build it and lay it into the car.  What's the big deal?

My first thought also ... I wish I had a removable dash.  I can't twist around as easily as I once could and always seems to be between switching back and forth from glasses on and glasses off. (and yes, the glasses are bifocals!) 
 

Boy that's a bunch of relays there Hakan- I thought I was bad! I guess I'm weird, I love doing that sort of thing.

I replaced the EEC-IV Quarterhorse combination I had with a Swedish made MAXXECU https://www.maxxecu.com/ because of local support and dynos available and also the fact that hardware developed more than thirty years ago ain't got much tuning software constantly developed any longer like with the case of the MAXXECU. The latest version of the tuning software for the MAXXECU was actually released two days ago and the next latest in November 2021. I have no idea how easy it is to use yet, but I hope I have learned something from working with IT for quite some time and if not there's like I mentioned local support available.

In the pictures I posted it looks like there's more relays than it is as a put some of them on top of the fuse box. So far I've only used ten relays, but then I also at least tried to keep the whole system as simple as possible besides the remote controlled door locks.

If you run Cruise Control with LED tail/stop lights you may need to interpose a relay to provide the Cancel signal on braking.  Thanks for the info on the PCM.
 

Nos681 wrote:

Looks great as usual Hakan.

Have you guys considered the use of solid state relays?

My supervisor has an experimental aircraft and used a system to control at instead of electromechanical relays. They are programmable and resetable.
One reason he used it is for weight reduction and vibration.

SSRs are good, especially if you want to PWM a fuel pump or cooling fan or need fast reacting switching for like a line lock or transbrake.

But, in my opinion, PDMs are the way to go. They seem expensive at 1st, but when you look at simply how much wiring it eliminates and how clean and controllable the install becomes it's worth it. Yes some will argue that if the unit fails everything is dead, but again IMHO it's more than worth it.

Here's a good example of a nice PDM https://www.shopasmotorsports.com/hardwire-electronics-pdm-10. Pair this up with an EFI system that talks CAN and you have an awesome set of capabilities.

Or you can buy a unit like this Haltech that has everything! https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-195000-nexus-r5-vcu/

Vertical power is the system.