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My starter relay went out today and I am wondering about where best to get a new one. Some years ago we had a discussion about the good ones and the not so good ones. I am wondering about just going to my local parts dealer or going on line. Either way, I'm taking a chance. Or could I get a good one from my local Ford dealer - assuming he still carries one.
Oh, 66 C-code now with 351W. It's been a couple of decades since I last bought one, so I don't know the state of the quality of new parts.
Last edited by lowercasesteve (3/09/2022 11:39 PM)
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My first choice would be Motorcraft. Perhaps check with a ford dealer or shop online.
Second choice would be Standard motor products brand. See if local auto parts stores carry this line. Or, online shop.
Also, make sure your battery is fully charged and check the condition of both battery cables and grounds. Replace as necessary.
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I got this from "The Big Forum": You should stick with Only Original Ford, Autolite, or Motorcraft, KEM, or Standard Motor Parts regular or Blue Streak lines from SMP.. All the rest are absolute junk. Literally.
And yes you can still get a Motorcraft solenoid
Last edited by Mach1Driver (3/10/2022 7:31 AM)
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If you are running a 12V aftermarket ignition of some kind you do not need the "brown wire" and the "I" lug on the starter solenoid (relay). If that's the case you can probably find a solenoid from a late 80s Ford....Fox Mustang, Lincoln, Crown Vic, etc...that used a solenoid without the starting ignition kicker that the earlier Fords used.
BB1
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Thanks, all. That's what I needed.
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The Duraspark conversion, technically NOT aftermarket, still uses the second terminal with the brown wire. Although it is not absolutely necessary to have it, the brown wire serves to activate the retard function when In START mode.
Bullet’s suggestion is good if using anything else.
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Thanks, MS. My ignition is stock except for a Pertronix module in the Dist - even still have a 40 year old 6 volt coil. The FiTech requires elimination of the vacuum advance, too.
After replacing the solenoid with no improvement, I looked under the hood and the starter wire from the key had come off. It just slid on and off as if there were nothing to hold it. I bet it was so loose, it lost its connection. I crimped the connector down a bit and it no longer slides off and the engine starts right up. As I recall, when new that wire was connected with a circular connector like a washer. Tied down with a nut. Maybe I'll return to that. Removing a little nut is not difficult.
Last edited by lowercasesteve (3/10/2022 7:18 PM)
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I prefer the slip on connectors as original, but either way will work. Now that you tightened up the connector, it will probably last another 50 years.
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lowercasesteve wrote:
Thanks, MS. My ignition is stock except for a Pertronix module in the Dist - even still have a 40 year old 6 volt coil. The FiTech requires elimination of the vacuum advance, too.
After replacing the solenoid with no improvement, I looked under the hood and the starter wire from the key had come off. It just slid on and off as if there were nothing to hold it. I bet it was so loose, it lost its connection. I crimped the connector down a bit and it no longer slides off and the engine starts right up. As I recall, when new that wire was connected with a circular connector like a washer. Tied down with a nut. Maybe I'll return to that. Removing a little nut is not difficult.
Most definitely!!!
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