Interesting that Cam King/ Camresearch will break in any Ford cam for $60, regardless of manufacture.

MS wrote:

However, 5.0 roller blocks are getting more scarce.

My apologies for going a bit off topic, but what would a guy expect to pay for a good 5.0 roller block?

Tim,

It depends. I purchased a complete 2000 explorer 5.0 for $200 last year. I paid $400 for the one in my FB and $300 for the coupe....

MS wrote:

I think it is great that somebody is at least addressing the issue. But, I doubt I would ever build another flat tappet cam engine when a better alternative is readily available. However, 5.0 roller blocks are getting more scarce.

For the guys that want to keep the engine original to the car (matching numbers) what's the best mods to do to a flat tappet cam set up?

Toploader wrote:

MS wrote:

I think it is great that somebody is at least addressing the issue. But, I doubt I would ever build another flat tappet cam engine when a better alternative is readily available. However, 5.0 roller blocks are getting more scarce.

For the guys that want to keep the engine original to the car (matching numbers) what's the best mods to do to a flat tappet cam set up?

Convert it to a roller cam.
 

You'll probably pay more for link bar lifters to convert it, than you will for a complete roller engine though.

Bearing Bob wrote:

I'd be willing to bet lunch that more regulars here have more issues with roller lifters that flat tappets.

I have had one roller lifter go bad in a running engine. It did destroy the cam when the wheel supports broke off the bottom.

I have had to pull brand new roller lifters out of brand new roller engines because they either would not pump up or they flowed oil overly freely, reducing oil pressure to the other lifters. Only once have I had a roller lifter destroy a cam.

The only flat tappet problem I have had was a 351c that totally ate a cam and lifter and have worked on a couple of bowties that did same.

It is a total crapshoot, but I do believe the roller 5.0 engines are pretty bulletproof as far as roller cam components.  I buy every 5.0 that is reasonably priced that I come across, and they are few and far between.

On my 331 I just got running, I used Summit brand roller lifters. So far, so good, but I have not driven it yet.

50vert wrote:

Toploader wrote:

MS wrote:

I think it is great that somebody is at least addressing the issue. But, I doubt I would ever build another flat tappet cam engine when a better alternative is readily available. However, 5.0 roller blocks are getting more scarce.

For the guys that want to keep the engine original to the car (matching numbers) what's the best mods to do to a flat tappet cam set up?

Convert it to a roller cam.
 

And this can be done with the original block from 1964?

Toploader wrote:

MS wrote:

I think it is great that somebody is at least addressing the issue. But, I doubt I would ever build another flat tappet cam engine when a better alternative is readily available. However, 5.0 roller blocks are getting more scarce.

For the guys that want to keep the engine original to the car (matching numbers) what's the best mods to do to a flat tappet cam set up?

Well, here's my advice: why risk the original engine?  When I was a kid and my dad and uncle had a bunch of Corvettes, Chevelles, etc. they used to pull the original numbers matching engine and mothball it, then drop in an engine they could have fun with without worrying about grenading it and destroying the value of the car.  Your best bet for more power and a more fun to drive car is a 5.0 swap anyway, and cost wise you can probably buy a running 5.0 for the cost of the retrofit roller lifters. 

50vert wrote:

You'll probably pay more for link bar lifters to convert it, than you will for a complete roller engine though.

   I cant believe the prices for the retro lifters.  $500 for name brand set.  
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

MS wrote:

Bearing Bob wrote:

I'd be willing to bet lunch that more regulars here have more issues with roller lifters that flat tappets.

I have had one roller lifter go bad in a running engine. It did destroy the cam when the wheel supports broke off the bottom.

On my 331 I just got running, I used Summit brand roller lifters. So far, so good, but I have not driven it yet.

The Summit lifters are actually built by I believe the same company that builds them for Trick Flow.  I researched lifters a couple years back and it turns out there are only like 3 companies that actually build lifters.  Most of the lifters you buy are someone else's lifters in the sellers box.
 

 
I've read that too!
Johnson comes to mind as a quality lifter' manufacturer'.
6s6

On that 64-1/2 block… remember that the bolt pattern st the bellhousing is different than a 5.0 roller block, so a bellhousing change will also be required. Crank is different balance than early engines, too, so the discussion expands exponentially.
In that case, the cost of a high quality retrofit cam and lifter set might not exceed the cost of changing all the stuff required to install a 5.0.

But, in my opinion, the 5.0 block is superior in more ways than just having roller lifters. Cooling ports are revised as well.