Just looking at a picture, looks fairly simple.
Looks like 2 bolts on side of tunnel and 1 bolt on top of tunnel.

The console on the other hand, no clue.

Probably just clips as most of the newer vehicles are snap together like high dollar legos.

Mustsed wrote:

I tried a bunch of emergency brake setups on classics to avoid the between seat e-brake handle.  No way the early cars with the pull e-brake handle can stop a car with rear disc brakes.
So I found an electronics engineer and we built a adjustable current limited motor controller with a capacity of 2 motors. 2 EPB calipers , the controller and some wiring gives you a incredible good rear disc e-brake system. Have now 2 Mustangs (67+68). 1 Falcon (61) and a Fairlane (64) Testing them for me since 2 month!

Very easy!

Mustsed

Very interested in this E-Brake setup, can you provide details, including a parts list?
 

Mustsed...great to see your voice.  It's been quite a while, glad to see you are still "inventing".  Hope things are going well for you.

BB1
 

Mustsed – sorry to hear about you, and your families’ issues with Covid 19.  Hoping the recoveries are without complications.
Following up on the EPB questions; could the EPB be setup w/o a controller?  Could one just operate it with a full battery voltage and a reversing polarity switch?  My interest is purely for use when parked.

Mustsed wrote:

Hi everboy,

Thanks for the wishes BobE and yes it becomes better day by day!

You need a way to controll much pressure you apply and stop the e-brake motors. Electric motors draw more amps when under load and this is how you adjust the force to hold the brakes.
Sure it would be very simple to just switch them on or off but the chances to destroy the gears in the EPB are very high. Power on too long and demage to calipers can happen, power on to less and it won't hold the car. 
When you drive your car, the rotors heat up and expand then you pull the switch and press the calipers out to grab the rotors, releasing when you think it's ok.
Then the rotors cool down and become thinner, if there is not enough force applied by the calipers you brakes fail to hold the car.
The controller is $144 over here and not high enough to go manual from my view.
 Every car must have e-brakes to pass inspection in my part of the world and that's why i made this system at the beginning.

Mustsed
 

This is really cool, I've actually looked into this a little myself. Is this controller something you plan on selling, if so I'd be interested. Definitely sounds like something I would like to try. Let us know how it goes.

Hi everybody,

The cars that are testing the first bash of controllers will be back here soon so i will get some feedback on the system. The retracting time is only setable by the guys who build these controllers for me therefore the more we collect datavise the better they will perform. 
I will post a seperate topic about this in a few weeks. 

Mustsed



 

Hi BobE,

I am investigating these calipers for a long time and looked into many EPB calipers that are found in european cars or SUV's. Almost all cars with EPB CALİPERS have some sort of assist (hill-, ice-, etc.) integrated to their function and therefore they are controlled by the vehicle ecm.
I was not able to locate a separate controller just for the EPB calipers that's why these controllers came into life! Never seen a EPB only caliper and again, all the ones I looked at where hydraulic calipers with integrated EPB drives.
The brake pistons do their job as all other hydraulic piston calipers and the EPB is a screw behind the piston (not connected to it in anyway) driven by the motor to push the piston against the rotor. When realesing the e-brake, the screw backs-up and leaves a small gap between both parts. When the pads wear out, the screw pushes the piston until the adjusted CURRENT value is reached and stops.
I don't think that you can hold the switch exactly at the same value by hand, everytime!

Mustsed

This is the controller and the grid is centimeters.

Hi BobE,

The sad true i faced too, when searching for a stand alone EPB controller.

Every EPB caliper might be different but they are 6-7 amps start - 2-3 Amps run and 6-7 amps stop with peaks araound 11-12 amps. These are the numbers for the scenic/megane EPB calipers and others may vary. Best to meassure them with the setup on the bench. The box in the pic is one inlet each for power / switch and 2 adjustable outlets with 2 second rewind time built into it.

Mustsed

Hi BobE,

I can't write anything about that because never dealed with power window modules bu seems to be the same principal for one exception. Windows go all the way down or up!

The PBR calipers need somewhere around 7-8 seconds for their full range of motion but only a second do press the piston out. If you do not want to wait 7-8 seconds to apply the e-brakes, you need to stop the rewinding motion in another way except current which in my case is time. My controller is pressing on the piston untill it reaches the adjusted current stop and rewinds the screw (which leaves the piston on hydraulic only) for 2 seconds! The new bash of controllers will have 1.4 seconds rewind time which is plenty to relaese the parking brake function. 

I looked into many other modules used in industrial applications and came up with one build for me by a proffesional hard- and software company. Since 2 days i am talking to the test car drivers and it seems that only the rewind time is a little to long wich we wil change, otherwise the controllers are working as they should.

Mustsed

Hi BobE,

Nice part but totaly out of my price range! Didn't know that there are e-brake only PBR out there and couldn't find of any in mass production brands. 

Today we agreed on another bash of the controllers and they will be ready in 2 weeks. I pay $144 per controller (controlls 2 calipers) $7 shipping in here and $27 shipping to the US which totals to $178/controller.
Should there be interest i could send a few of them over to you.

Mustsed