Is this a question so you can copy one of our setups?

Or because you just want to know what they are?

I'm not be facetious, if I'm going to offer advice I need to know what your setup is, and what you want to accomplish.

For me, running a stock Ford factory hydraulic cam in the 289 in my '67.  Engine's done reving at 5,000.  Makes decent power with the bolt ons.  T5, 3.50 rear gear. 

'89 GT project with a 331 stroker, AFR 185 heads, and many, many other goodies is running a Crane roller 220/228 @0.050 .542/5.63 lift on a 112 degree LSA.  Looking for 425-450HP from that engine.  T5, 3.73 rear gear. 

This is my Comp Cams hydraulic flat tappet in my 393w & AFR 185 heads. It's not Sally approved, butt...

Last edited by Bearing Bob (4/15/2020 6:33 PM)

For a basic rebuild with mildly improved stock heads I would advise using something like one of the Ford Racing cams for anything with E7TE heads. Stock and mildly modified those cams always worked great.  The B cam is quite good, and so is the E cam if you want a little more.

For an early head car with a flat tappet cam I'd look for something with a bit more exhaust duration and/or lift.  The intake ports tend to work better and the exhaust flow needs help.

For nitrous or turbo applications the cam doesn't matter that much until you start making tons of power.  Usually those engines run a fairly mild cam because you want to keep the cylinder pressure in, and they don't ten to run radical compression ratios because they don't have to.  In a power adder application the power is made by the power adder, not so much the engine its on.  If I want more power from a blower engine its a lot easier to swap pulleys than it is to swap a cam.  On a nitrous engine just add more nitrous and fuel.  Turbos can be trickier, but typically unless the turbo(s) on it are already maxed you can just adjust the wastegate to allow more boost pressure. 

When in doubt, call one of the cam companies.  I'm partial to Crane as I feel I've always been given good advice and they actually pick up the phone on the tech line. 

Here is my cam, it's a Comp and is in a 331CI. SBF

The cam in my 416W. Looks the same as lowercasesteve's.

Last edited by HudginJ3 (4/15/2020 6:02 PM)

Does anyone know lift limitations for 92 Mustang 5.0 (E7 stock/exhaust port matched)?

2000 Explorer 5.0 (GT40P Bone Stock 😜)?

Also have 351w/ C9 heads? (Screw in studs/plates/roller rockers/ Eddie 351w performer springs)

In theory the max lift for the stock springs in the E7TE heads is 0.500", but that's new springs and assuming everything stacks up right.  I would not put a bigger cam in an engine with stock valve springs that are at this point 30 years old.  I would get a set of the springs recommended by the cam manufacturer.

The GT40 and GT40p heads flow great at low lift.  That's what they were designed to do.  If a stock or stockish engine suits you they are a great choice.  If you are trying to find cheap heads for a real performance build to avoid spending $1,000 on a real set of heads; look elsewhere.  They just require too much work.  If budget is the constraint I'd look for used Edelbrock, Trick Flow, etc. heads over trying to rework a set of GT40 or GT40P heads. 

Dan what you have is fine for your engine, mildly improved stock. You could go real old school and use 1.7 RR's on the exhaust side, butt whatever don't go to an alphabet cam.
Fer my combo; 331, AFR185 58cc heads, Exploder intake, 65mm TB, 70mm MAF, 30lb inj. 2400 Stall, 3.55 rear gears, Moates Quarterhorse ECCIV
Lunati SB Ford Voodoo Hydraulic Roller Cam - (272/280)This is the performance street profile out of the Voodoo series of hydraulic roller camshafts for the 302HO and 351W engine. Strong mid-range power with a noticeable idle quality for the drive in crowd<6S6. Really good performance street and open track camshaft in 302-311 cubic inch engines.  2400+ RPM stall converter for automatics. Works best with good flowing cylinder heads and aftermarket induction system. Requires 3.55 or higher numerical rear gears. Tubular headers and free flowing mufflers and dual exhaust system recommended.Will work with factory Mass-Air systems without modification.SPECIFICATIONS:

• Duration @ .006" -
• Intake: 272*
• Exhaust: 280*
• Duration @ .050" -
• Intake: 221*
• Exhaust: 229*
• Valve Lift w/1.6 Rocker Ratio
• Intake: .549"
• Exhaust: .565"
• Lobe Separation: 112*
• Intake Centerline: 108*
• RPM Range: 2000-6000

331 Trick Flow stage 2 Cam
Fair idle, good midrange power
Basic Operating RPM Range - 2,500-6,000 RPM
Elderbrock Rpm Heads 202 Intake 190 exhaust
five-speed 3.73 gears
Duration @ .050" - 224°/232°
Valve Lift with 1.6 Rocker - .542/.563
Lobe Separation - 112
16 inch vacuum

My Statistics:
Rebuilt 351W, 0.40”; 1975 ‘Roller cam’ block, 9.5 CR
Heads: Edelbrock – “Performer“- 60329
Cam: Comp Cams: Hydraulic Roller, XE270HR, 35-351-8
Intake Manifold:  Edelbrock – “Performer RPM” - 7181
Carburetor: 600 CFM Holley DP; #4776
Transmission: WC T-5
Rear End: 9”, Auburn posi, 3.89 gears.
Idle Vacuum: 16-17” @~ 900RPM

This is what I am running in my 427w with Novi 2000, TEA CNC'd 205R heads, etc.

Last edited by Raymond_B (4/21/2022 10:38 AM)

Rudi wrote:

Raymond_B wrote:

This is what I am running in my 427w with Novi 2000, TEA CNC'd 205R heads, etc.

 
How do you keep rear tires on that?

It's quite the challenge even with 315/60/15 ET Streets