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I Have a very odd issue, and just curious if any of you have ever ran into it. I bought a set of 5-leaf reverse eye springs for the 68, to replaced the completely worn out factory springs. Got everything installed and noticed my driver side parking brake cable was really pulled tight (custom cable I made for the 8.8 disc brakes). So I assumed I routed it differently or something when putting the new leaf spring in. But the more I looked, I realized the rear end was setting further back in the car. I looked at the driveshaft at the trans and sure enough the yoke was pulled out of the trans over an inch more that is typically runs. So now I measured the wheel base, and it measured 109 5/16" vs 108'. I measured the distance from the front spring eye to the locating pin, and it was over an inch different. It was hard to get a perfect measurement due to the arc of the spring and by myself. The new springs are slightly longer overall as well.
These are New Scott Drake Springs.
On another note, my factory springs were completely flat (worn out) with a 1/2" lowering block to achieve the ride height I wanted. The new 5-leaf reverse eye springs set 1/2" lower, and I assume they will settle somewhat. These are going to set the car too low. Right now the fender lip is down over top of the top of the tire about 1". I was afraid it would have set too high with the new springs which I could have fixed with a block. Not much I can do with them too low.
It sounds like I am going to need another set of springs either way, I will go Mid -Eye next time.
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Sounds like you may have gotten the locating pin sitting in the wrong place on your spring perch, but I wouldn’t put it passed Scott Drake to have a totally defective product.
My new 4.5 leaf mid eye springs put my car needing 1.5” block to get the tire even close to the wheel arch, but they are not scott drake. Springs are so inconsistent now, it is unbelievable.
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I agree with MS, appears that the spring bolt is not properly placed in the lowering block. If the lower block is flat against the spring, the bolt head may have sheared off. If so, be careful removing the axle housing to spring u-bolts as the leaf spring will separate as the u-bolts are loosened. Suggest using c-clamps on the spring both front a rear of the mounting point to keep the 'leafs' from separating.
Also, the head of the bolt must match the lower block centering hole to maintain proper location.
I have purchased the center spring bolts from 'WFO Concepts' (a 4-wheel drive supplier).
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The new leaf spring is installed without any lowering block. The axle housing is centered up on the locating pin with the pin/bolt in the locating hole on the spring plate which is welded to the axle of course. I think it is a bad product. I also say that when the new spring and old spring were laying next to each other in the floor, the new spring with arch was longer than the old flat spring. That should have made me wonder.
I purchased them from KY Mustang who I have had good luck with and they are looking into with the supplier (Holley/ScottDrake) to see if there have been any other issues. I suspect they will say no other issues, but KY Mustang will stand behind the product and change them out or refund money.
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I found the factory leaf spring dimensions and compared them to my original springs and they were right on the money. Then I checked the new springs and while a little more difficult to get exact dimensions with them installed, the distance from the bolt/pin to the rear eye/shackle appears correct. The dimension from the bolt/pin to the front eye is approximately 1”+ long.
Also the shackles are leaning fairly aggressively to the rear at the bottom of the shackle, meaning a hard dip could cause the rear eyelet to contact the frame rail.
I am chalking it up to just another sub par reproduction part.
Now do I try the same thing different manufacture or try the mid-eye.
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kardad wrote:
Well I wish I would have checked them like this before the install, but who would have thought, I should have that’s who. Like everything on this car over the last ten years, it’s been apart multiple times. The overall length is off as well.
1 5/16” just like I was seeing at the driveshaft yoke.
That is quite a difference.
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Looks like you got a Cougar spring in there! Bad part is, I bet there is another guy with the exact same problem!!!
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IF you turn the spring end-for-end would that put the pin in the correct position?
Just ax'en.........
6sally6
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No, the assembly bolt/ pin is 21” + from the front eye and 31” + from the shackle end.
I actually thought MS might be on to something with the Cougar comment as the wheel base in the Cougar is 3” longer anyway. But after looking it up apparently the shackle end eyes are larger on the Cougar and none of my bushings would have worked.
I think it’s just a poor reproduction part and to be honest a lot of people would have put them in and not noticed. At least not until they looked at the driveshaft yoke. If it wouldn’t had been for my parking brake cable for the 8.8 rear I have, and the adjustment needed on my Cal-Trac bars I wouldn’t noticed until there was an issue.
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If I remember Cougar springs were 4'' longer overall
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Update,
I took the Scott Drake 5 leaf reverse eye springs back and compared to 5 leaf mid eye spring and the pin was in the same location.
So we looked at a Scott Drake 4 leaf standard eye stock replacement springs and they matched my factory springs exactly.
This tells me that they are getting reverse eye and mid eye from a different supplier than the standard eye.
Now I have to put the car back together with the stock springs while looking for a different supplier.
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wouldnt the reverse eye sit lower than a mid eye?
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May be quicker/EZ'er/cheaper/all around better/ to have them re-arched at a local spring place.
OR.......
add a 1/2 leaf to the front of your stock springs.
6sally6
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I took the bottom leaf out of my 5 leaf reverse eye springs.
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