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6/01/2022 2:17 PM  #1


Ball joint separator

Finally got a chance to take some pictures of the ball joint separator I made years ago in the shop press.

In the pictures, I don’t have any lubricant on the threads.
I only used a pair of 10” adjustable wrenches.
Threads are 3/4”-10 (coarse thread)

I know it can apply more force with lubricant and larger wrenches.
Just wanted to share how this contraption works.

I noticed more people are asking how to remove ball joints or having problems with various other tools to perform this task.

I’ve even used this in the junkyard.
All I can say is that it works for me and minimizes the hammering required…sometimes not even required.
Hopefully this can prevent additional hair pulling…if you have any left.😁

Starting length


This is Zero on this gauge


Final gauge reading


Final length

Last edited by Nos681 (6/01/2022 4:52 PM)

 

6/01/2022 2:57 PM  #2


Re: Ball joint separator

Interesting, I tried to make one of these years ago (from instructions I found in a Ford Service manual) and had trouble with it slipping off the ball joint studs as I tightened the bolt.  Glad it worked out for you.


65 Fastback, 351W, 5-speed, 4 wheel discs, 9" rear,  R&C Front End.
 

6/01/2022 3:36 PM  #3


Re: Ball joint separator

I made a similar one like yours following the instructions that Daze has posted on his website.  It worked well for me.  (look at second half of the page for the ball joint tool)
https://dazecars.com/dazed/spring.html


1968 T-code Coupe with a 302.  Nice car, no show stopper for sure, but I like it.
 

6/01/2022 4:09 PM  #4


Re: Ball joint separator

I turned down a recess in the bolt head to fit over a thread or two of the ball joint to keep it centered.

PS- Dan, is your connector a Simpson Strong Tie with the set screws?


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 

6/01/2022 4:29 PM  #5


Re: Ball joint separator



Just a coupling nut from hardware store.

The silver side is all-thread with a nut to make a recess as needed.
That is a roll pin, not a set screw.
The 3/4”-10 bolt has a slight recess too….I try to keep that one stationary.

The bolt end can be substituted with different length bolts as needed.
This has been used on Granada spindles as well.

I loosen castle nut(s) with a slight gap, apply pressure, and then strike if needed with 3-5# hammer.
After first one breaks loose, reapply pressure and repeat for second ball joint.

Sometimes if ball stud spins, I apply pressure from lower control arm to prevent spinning to get the castle nut(s) off.  Might have to repeat process to break free again.

Last edited by Nos681 (6/02/2022 4:47 AM)

     Thread Starter
 

6/02/2022 5:10 AM  #6


Re: Ball joint separator

Rufus68 wrote:

I made a similar one like yours following the instructions that Daze has posted on his website.  It worked well for me.  (look at second half of the page for the ball joint tool)
https://dazecars.com/dazed/spring.html

 
Daze and one of my manuals that showed the Ford tool was the inspiration.

My spring compressor is also based on Daze’s design.
Mine is all bolted together.

Last edited by Nos681 (6/02/2022 5:15 AM)

     Thread Starter
 

6/02/2022 7:57 AM  #7


Re: Ball joint separator

Good work!

 

Board footera


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