Welcome new guy!!
Can't see how just replacing vacuum advance pot could make it  stall !  UNLESS........
These old hot rods have a mind of their own it seems like!
I say........do a quick mini tune up.
Disconnect and plug vacuum line to distrib.......
Verify the timing is still 13* on a warmed up engine. (I would bump it up to at least 15*)
Clean air filter??
adjust carb....With engine OFF 'gently'  bottom out both air adjustment screws...screw each one OUT 2 1/2 turns.
Fire engine and increase curb idle to about 1000RPM....turn one screw at the time OUT until engine 'just" starts to miss
   then the other screw same procedure.
  Slow curb idle down to 750 RPM (or 'just' a tad less)
With the timing light shining on timing mark hook up vacuum hose to vacuum advance. Did the timing change??
Ck. the PCV valve to hear it rattle.

Now...........IF you had a timing tape on the harmonic balancer  'then' you could see if the timing was advancing and how much!
Report back your results!!! New Guy!!!
6sally6

I agree with BobE.  Did it run right before the can swap?  If not I agree that is probably your issue.  You could just remove the hose and plug it and see if it continues to do it.  The car will run fine without it. 

Since you are messing with timing though, here's an overview of things to consider/understand in terms of timing:

The biggest thing is make sure that TDC #1 on the balancer is actually TDC.  Old balancers can have the outer ring shift on the hub and become inaccurate.  There were also about 4 different timing pointer/balancer combinations used by Ford over the years.  If you don''t know what a previous owner did you may have a mix and match situation, which is not accurate.  The non HiPo 289s are capable of running with the timing 60 degrees off believe it or not.  They don't run optimally like that, but they will start, drive run, etc. 

13 degrees could be a lot of initial, but what's total advance (vacuum disconnected and hose plugged), and at what RPM?  I base initial advance on my total timing goal, so you need to know how much mechanical advance you have.  If my goal is 38 total and I get 26 from mechanical advance I set initial timing at 12 degrees.  Ford distributors have two locations for mechanical advance, though changing between them  requires disassembling the distributor.  Typically you will see them stamped like 9 and 13.  You double that number and that's how much mechanical advance you are getting (18 and 26 in this example).

Then there's how quick the mechanical advance comes in.  This is determined by the springs.  Unless the engine is really radical (a stock C code isn't).  I would advise buying the advance spring kit and installing the lightest springs.  The quicker the advance comes in the snappier the engine becomes.  You want all advance in by 3,000 RPM.

Vacuum advance is for fine tuning during cruising, etc.  You have to get the initial and mechanical advance and RPM of total advance sorted before messing with the vacuum advance. 

Welcome to the forum!

Thanks to everyone for their input regarding my problem
The car didn't stall before putting on the new vacuum advance so it was non functional before. I think I will try to plug up the vacuum and see how it runs since I've heard the same thing; that you don't really need the vacuum advance. I originally had the timing at  6 degrees and it ran rough that is why I advanced it to 13 degrees. Perhaps with a functioning vacuum advance I am now getting too much total vacuum.  It s a completely rebuilt Autolite 2100 carb.The manufacturer called it a "master rebuild" not one with just a new float and gaskets.

Thanks to everyone for the warm welcome to the board

Norm
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

I would highly advise checking that TDC is really TDC.  You just need to buy or make a piston stop.  Really pretty easy.  Turn the engine one direction until it hits the stop mark the balancer, then the other and mark again.  The point directly between the marks is actual TDC. 

The biggest thing with tuning is isolate variables.  Change only one thing at a time.  You can't set timing with a bad advance can for example.
 

I agree with the above.  Suggest a quick check by plugging the vacuum port, set the timing to around 6 degrees and check/adjust the idle mixture screws.  For starting purposes, the screws should about 1.5 turns from fully inserted.  Go lightly when screwing them into the seat to avoid damaging the valve and seat.
 

The vacuum advance unit you replaced will not cause you to have to much vacuum. When the Vacuum can is attached to manifold or ported vacuum it advances the timing some set amount. Some Vacuum cans are adjustable so the user can limit the amount of vacuum advance the vacuum advance unit can deliver.
That said, if the vacuum advance can is hooked to ported (timed) vacuum it should not effect idle performance. If the can is hooked to manifold vacuum then the additional timing the vacuum advance can delivers will require some fine tuning of the idle.
Once the carb is off the idle circuit (butterflies opening) manifold and ported vacuum advance are, for all practical purposes, identical.