Here’s my method

Passenger side upper windsheild corner is in like new shape compared to the drivers side upper corner. The pillars pretty heavily pitted. They were getting pankcake rust under the drip rail mounting surface. The drips rails are instact and surprisingly nice salvageable shape.

This is what I need to do also so I was gonna brace like this I just didnt knownif this was good enough and I didnt need to worry about bracing from cowl side to cowl side.

BobE wrote:

True74yamaha wrote:

Passenger side upper windsheild corner is in like new shape compared to the drivers side upper corner. The pillars pretty heavily pitted. They were getting pankcake rust under the drip rail mounting surface. The drips rails are instact and surprisingly nice salvageable shape.

True74yamaha, a question and a suggestion …
Question: from this picture of the top of the A-Pillar; does the last piece ‘seal off’ the A-Pillar chamber from the roof area?  I’m wanting to run some wiring down the A-Pillar from the roof area and am wondering if this area is accessible or not.
 
Suggestion: Depending on how tall you are, you want to cut down the seat pans to give you a little extra headroom.  (I wish I had done mine when it was apart)
 
You’ve taken on quite a project, good luck with your efforts.


 

 
Will check A pillar for you to confirm. But Im thinking that you could route those wires through the A pillar three wires correct? What are some functions of the mirror that leaned you towards going with the swap? I have 1993 Mustang Convertible window locks and beleive mirror wiring with the switch. Wanted a cool switch to operate the quarter windows. The other option for switch was a 1957 t bird switch as I thought they look like they couldve been in a Mustang. Just expensive switch though and I would really like the later I think 1967 tBird? Had a similar four window switch that I really like for my ride but still spendy. Anyways the A pillar is pretty hollow I would think you could send a wire through the pillar and drill a small hole in the pillar where it meets the dash to cowl side. Gettin the wire through the a pillar top corner and then over to the windsheild center doesnt seem like it would be hard to get it to go through I will run a fish tape and check. Here is a blow apart view of a sectioned off A pillar to windsheild corner.
Also kinda a neat thread that I found that image in.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/front-frame-rail-fixture-and-more.891002/

Last edited by True74yamaha (8/22/2022 12:06 AM)

The 87-93 convertible mirror has courtesy/map lights installed, has a day/night flipping ability and is a wider than the original (it also glues to the windshield, although that is not a “selling point”).  The three wires are 12v power, door courtesy light switch, and ground wire.  I’ll need to install a relay for it to work with the existing door switch.  
The link forwarded is helpful, and I’m impressed with the project this person undertook, talk about rebuilding a car!

What size tubing should I buy for supporting the font of my car for when I remove the firewall and full floor pan ? Also what type of jack stands do you guys use on your car for such surgery like floor repair? Ive always been worried to use the jack stands I have under the rockers due to it looking the top of the stand will hit the floor. After alot of looking I found some jack stands on ebay that have the notch out for the pinch weld and look more stable to me for placing the car on the rockers for complete suspension removal and then I will swap the car to my chassis jig I built for my car. Am I missing something when placing the  jack stands under the roclers ? What type of jack stand should I use or how do you guys set them up?