Is the 69 column you're using a stock set up? If it is, my understanding is the borgesen  u joint is designed for use with their splined steering shaft. The u joint fits in the shaft splines and the steering box splines.

Seems like you're making too much work for yourself and additional expense if all you needed to fix your problem was a nut and bolt for the rag joint.

"NVH" ?

"TS&T" ?

Ford specifically built NVH into 60’s - 70’s Mustangs. We have been trying to get them out ever since.

Evan wrote:

Hey everyone I have a 66 mustang with 302 v8 and mustang at Steve cable clutch conversion and borgeson set up with a collapsible column from a 69 mustang. I currently have a borgeson rag joint installed and when I went to take the car out recently I noticed my steering wheel was moving up and down when I went to adjust my seat. I pulled back into the garage and looked under the hood and it looks like the rag joint lost a bolt and nut. So instead of re doing it. I’ve just picked up a u joint from borgeson.

Has anyone went from a rag joint to u joint with a borgeson. I assume it’s the same install as a rag joint but it will just be the u joint. Any help is appreciated.

 
Good luck finding the appropriate size u-joint. They make the correct spline 11/16" 36 spline if I remember correctly. I own a 1965 Ford Mustang Coupe. 289 c4 automatic with MS powerbrakes, 2013 GT brakes, ms Lower bearing kit.  I never liked the looks of The Borgeson floor mount for the conversion I made/bought this floor mount for my steering column also includes a MS lower bearing kit. Using a ujount will be tight as can be on clearance with the firewall.






I will post photo of engine bay with box installed with u joint I may go with a solid joint for the set up instead borgeson sells them and last I looked were clearance I need one.

For close proximity to exhaust system, I would suggest a distorted thread flange nut.

All metal nut like TKO suggested.

Last edited by Nos681 (8/20/2022 7:34 AM)

You can buy shoulder bolts. They are the only correct way to do this connection. A bolt that is onlybtightened against a piece of rubber is going to get loose.   Period

Borgeson on Jose’s 65 using MustangSteve bearing kit. Also notice the PVC spacer I made to make the ill-fitting borgeson lower bearing seal fit tighter.  It amazes me that with the great product borgeson has, they scrimp and provide junk like the bolts, firewall brace that doesn’t work, a plastic lower bearing for the column and the loose/not fitting lower bearing seal at the pitman arm. All four issues are easy fixes. Don’t get me started on their hose fitment….

Bolts: Buy shoulder bolts so the nut can be torqued against the bolt’s shoulder. Use loctite and large OD washers if you cannot get shoulder bolts. This is a serious safety issue borgeson should address.

Firewall brace:  Weld 1” long extensions to the three fingers that are originally too short to clamp anything, then attach to the firewall with 1/4” bolts and a worm-gear radiator hose clamp around the column and longer three fingers.

Plastic column bushing:  Replace with MustangSteve bearing kit.

Lower Seal:  Place a section of PVC pipe (or guys like Rudi machine something) to take up the slack and it will compress the seal, keeping out dirt.

Wow hey guys thank you for all the replies. I appreciate it. I was out sick for a little bit. But now am back at it. I was able to get out and take a look at it today and this is what it looks like.



Definetley  missing that washer and nut from the top. I haven’t opened the u joint so I could always send it back.  But now that I’m looking more into this. It looks like it’s not even on correctly. I was reading on some borgeson instructions for a rag joint and it says it needs to be pretty much just about right up to the bottom of the steering column. Which o don’t think I can get any closer as it’s already really close to the fire wall.   And also from what I found it said. Not to tighten the lock but on the section that has the groove on the steering box. Where it looks like mine is.

I don’t know if I have enough steering shaft from my column  to get it past that groove. If I recall it is collapsible so I may be able to pull a little more out. But I’ll have to see.

Evan wrote:

Wow hey guys thank you for all the replies. I appreciate it. I was out sick for a little bit. But now am back at it. I was able to get out and take a look at it today and this is what it looks like.



Definetley  missing that washer and nut from the top. I haven’t opened the u joint so I could always send it back.  But now that I’m looking more into this. It looks like it’s not even on correctly. I was reading on some borgeson instructions for a rag joint and it says it needs to be pretty much just about right up to the bottom of the steering column. Which o don’t think I can get any closer as it’s already really close to the fire wall.   And also from what I found it said. Not to tighten the lock but on the section that has the groove on the steering box. Where it looks like mine is.

I don’t know if I have enough steering shaft from my column  to get it past that groove. If I recall it is collapsible so I may be able to pull a little more out. But I’ll have to see.

 
Looks wrong, like the metal might bind on the firewall and fitting is not all the way down on the splined shaft.

Ok I think I got it squared away. I was able to extend my steering shaft to where the rag joint is right up against the steering box like you showed. I then pulled it back and got a file and dremel and put a little bit of a flat spot on the shaft and set the set screw with lock tight and the lock nut. I then pulled out the stud that was missing the washer and bolt and was able to find one in my extra bolts and nuts I have.  I put the new washer on and put lock tight on the nut and tightend it up as much as I could.  It got to a point where it would just turn. I put a pair of needle nose plyers on the stud to try and hold it but it didn’t work that well.

I checked the steering wheel and it doesn’t budge now up or down. It’s allot more solid than it was.
Also my horn works like it should now too so I’ll take that.