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I am trying to figure out the best way to tackle handling the cracks around the holes on the driver door where the latching mechanism. I figure the more eyes and brains on it the better.
I could do just straight up MIG welding of it and grind it. I'm slightly reticent of doing this because I'll lose the factory texture.
I could TIG weld it, except my TIG welding has a lot to be desired.
I see plates out there for sell that I could get that would reinforce the area, but not fix the cracks.
I could make my own plate, but the cracks are still there.
I'm open to ideas if there are any others.
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Personally, I don't like the look of those plates. If your tig welding ain't up to par do a little practicing. I'd use a 1/16" tungsten, and you probably won't use more than 45 50 amps max. Any low spots go over with filler, cuz you don't want any body filler on those high impact areas. And if you're welding ain't up to snuff, have your son weld it as I do.
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Mike, don’t worry about the texture, after it’s welded it will obviously need to be painted, just set the spray gun up for a heavy orange peel. I doubt anyone cept you will notice.
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I had similar cracks on the driver’s door and installed the plate that reinforces that area 10 years ago. The plate is secured by the lock mechanism screws inside the door. The door frame metal is sandwiched (where the cracks are) between the plate and the lock mechanism. As such, it should stop the cracks from further expanding, in addition to strengthening that area. Paint it match body color; it is hardly noticeable. Plus, how many times is the door opened to notice the plate.
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Mike, the left door on the Heap came from a fastback that had been smacked hard right behind the B pillar. The door latch had been pulled completely through the door shell, leaving a big hole. Otherwise it was the best OEM door I could find. I bought one of those back up plates,which miked thicker than the original steel, and my body guy cut away all the damaged area and welded in the new plate. Then he sort of mottled the area to make it sort of look like the factory Sierra grain.
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Good job, Bullet Bob!
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Mike,
Same repair on my left side door .
Careful welding with MIG turned down, decent spacing for penetration, go slow and presto.
Like new door. I used dimples from a bad door. I think the dimples are available to repair this area.
Cman
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Bullet Bob wrote:
Mike, the left door on the Heap came from a fastback that had been smacked hard right behind the B pillar. The door latch had been pulled completely through the door shell, leaving a big hole. Otherwise it was the best OEM door I could find. I bought one of those back up plates,which miked thicker than the original steel, and my body guy cut away all the damaged area and welded in the new plate. Then he sort of mottled the area to make it sort of look like the factory Sierra grain.
Wow! That's incredible. You can't tell at all.
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Well, it ain't perfect, Mike, but he tried real hard. The camera actually makes it look worse than if you were standing there looking at it. And he did a great job of positioning the latch. That door closes soooooo nice. Thanks for the kind words, Mike. Have you put the SPCC equipment in the car yet? Just checkin'.
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