What are you going to use to heat the length consistently?

Interesting!
I thought........the re-arch would not 'stay' in the spring if its just bent cold!
Since I've never attempted it  I'm just guessing.
Why not just put a 1/2 leaf in the front half of the spring pack? Sorta like the old MoPar super stockers did...get the stiffness like traction bars AND the increase in height with out the harshness of an 'extra leaf'!
Just a thought......
6sal6

MS wrote:

I just junked the springs off my 69 because they were arched too high.

 
Could they have been un-arched? I would have tried, nothing to lose.

I don't have any tips other than get both sides symmetrical. What do you have to lose other than time? I'd give it a try.

Back in the 70s I re-arched the front leaf springs on my 56 F100 with a bfh between two pieces of railroad tracks. It worked for me.

Last edited by Bearing Bob (9/05/2022 8:19 PM)

You'll have to heat the leaves to make it work.  Trying to get them to bend cold will induce stress that will cause the spring to crack and fail either while you are doing it or at some point in the future.  My thoughts are just get a spring shop to do it.  Far safer and with predictable results. 

Nos681 wrote:

Here’s a suggestion to heat them up evenly.

Use a welder or constant current (adjustable) battery charger.

I would connect on the leaf a few inches from the eyes.
Could also use the temperature marking sticks to ensure you get to same temperature and at each location of preference.

I had a copper/brass radiator repaired back in the 90’s and I saw this “battery charger looking thing.”
They would connect one clamp to the top and the other to the tank…it was only 10 amps.
When it was hot, they fed solder into the joints.


Here in da U.P. , da guys thaw frozen water lines with a welder…Eh?

For an experiment, wrap a “D” size battery in aluminum foil….don’t burn yourself or explode the battery.

The technology of heating with an electric current source is probably "Induction Heating".  Here's a video where a guy is explaining it:


 

Rufus, what I suggested isn’t induction heating.

Induction is like magnetizing a screwdriver across battery terminals.

Learned a lot of stuff from dear ol’ dad.

If your 40 ton aint enough, we have a 710 ton press at work. Not sure i want to be in the same building when you try to press it though. 
I have seen induction heating demos at the Fab shows we go to. Guy will hold a piece of 3/4" rod about 12" long, run it through a induction coil where it instantly turns red hot on one end about 2" and then just dips it in water to cool off.