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One of the things that's been on my to do list is a previous owner cut and poorly spliced wires in on every dash wire. And by poorly I mean cut, added a length of wire, twisted and electrical tape.
I searched for a dash harness, never had much luck, then I found a chopped piece on fleabag. My mind said cool I can repair my harness with one splice per wire and not two. As there just wasn't enough length to fix it. This solved my problem, as I have all the ends and length I need now. Anyway got it and took it apart. Neat stuff hiding under the tape.
Anyone seen anything like that gizmo the wires plug into? It almost seems like some sort of resistor coated in rubber. Also look how the dash lights are joined together. Neat stuff. Going to use solid round connectors and heat shrink.
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Rubber molded insulator around connections. They are probably one of the better parts of the harness, I would think.
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If all of the wires have same color code, it is a big butt splice.
I know this is a family show….😁
From the picture, looks like the lights for instrument cluster.
Yes, I had to open mine up many years ago to make temporary/permanent repair for over 25 years.
I had forgotten that I used the Western Union splice…no solder just electrical tape.
Oops!
Last edited by Nos681 (9/05/2022 9:56 PM)
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That looks like the black resister wire that feeds into the constant voltage thingy
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Take an ohm meter to it....might tell you something.
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Have you checked with Randy at Midlife Wiring Harnesses?
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To keep the color codes on BOTH ends of the wire you may need to splice a section of wire in the middle. I like to use soldered butt connectors with shrink tube. (I know that's not the best way butt-it workz great fur me!)
6s6
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Sal, the whole point of the harness section I bought on eBay is to use the ends of the harness to my existing harness ends eliminating a third piece of wire. The problem I had is most are short to begin with and just splicing my ends back together would have made them really short. The piece
I bought was already chopped up and the only thing good is the wire ends. Someone somewhere just chopped it out of a car. Kind of salvaging a waste...
Now I can match up the wire by color and give them plenty of length assuming they are good. With one connection splice. I have searched for years for a complete under dash harness, they get bid up to over 300 constantly. Intreging, there is a 64 harness on there right now for 29.95. Making me think about it. 64, would have some changing to make, but would offer a stand alone fuse box. 63 fuse box is on top of the headlight switch. Talk about pita!
The previous owner used both red and black wires. It is a fugly mess.
I just thought it neat how Ford spliced all the dash lights together. There is four cut wires and all are the same gauge. One HAS to be the power in. I'm sure one goes to the heater light, and one went to the column plug for the shift selector. Maybe the fourth one to the lights behind the dash switches... I expected the power in to be a thicker wire.
Last edited by Greg B (9/06/2022 8:15 PM)
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I’m not sure what year Mustang is this for, but whatever the year, I suggest getting the wiring diagram/schematic for that year and match up the wires. I prefer using uninsulated butt splices with heat shrink extending at least ¼” past the splice on each end. This tends to hold the splice steady and eliminate vibrating the butt joint that can eventually break the wires at the edge of the butt splice (yes, I’ve seen this happen). I also place solder in the butt splice to keep contaminants out of the joint although this is likely not necessary for under dash connections.
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