josh-kebob wrote:

Rudi wrote:

Does Ford or any of the other manufacturers require drain and fill on new vehicles on the 1st 500 miles?

No...

 
Zackly!

My first new truck was an 89, then I had a 93, 95, 2003, 2012, and 2019 plus an 01 Cobra and 2014 Escape. NONE of those had anything requiring an oil change other than the normal interval in the owner's manual.

**However, it's probably not a bad idea to swap out that rear end oil as it wasn't assembled by a big OEM with break in stands, QC checks, etc.

I still live by the motto "oil is cheap, engines are expensive".  The same applies to a rear.  When I do a rebuild I completely scrub the housing and tubes, but still why take the chance?  On a new vehicle, hard to say why they don't require a break in lube change.  One thing I always consider with new vehicles is that the manufacturer only care that the vehicle lasts problem free until the warranty expires.  If their research has shown that it does that without an oil change they don't benefit from telling you to change it, as very few people take their cars to the dealership for oil changes. 

Rudi wrote:

Idunno it might be ocd but when I changed rear gears the whole rear end was removed completely dismantled, sand blasted thoroughly cleaned painted and all bearings and seals replaced.
I was taught never to do things half a$$ed.
Putting a new chunk in a old rear end just don’t make sense.
I did the whole heat up- cool down exercise as specific by the gear manufacturer, never changed any lube.

The rear end is just a housing, there's nothing special about it especially if I'm not planning on racing.  Some mods make sense to take a bottom up approach.  For example, slapping performance heads on a stock engine or installing a performance suspension but keeping drum brakes. Those are both bad ideas that people do all the time.  Racing guys swap out third members all the time without swapping out the entire rear or sand blasting the whole thing.   I'm replacing the bearings and seals, cleaning up the axles, and using a new fully assembled third member.  There's just not much else there worth the huge effort to drop the entire rear to essentially apply a fresh coat of paint and put it right back.  Besides that, when I replaced the rear suspension and added four disc brakes I cleaned up the rear anyway.  

Joe changing out the 3rd member assembly is pretty straight forward.

I recently had damage to my 8” carrier.

Today I spent evening after work throughly cleaning out my axle housing.
I only had to remove hardware on lower shocks and the 4 u-bolts.

I took reference measurements of axle ends to springs and took a few pictures before housing removal from springs.  Three years ago, I throughly cleaned inside, outside, and painted housing.
I want to get the housing back in same position.

I removed a lot of old oil/grease and dirt from the axle tubes.  Really glad I had done so.
If I wasn’t messing around taking measurements on a 9” housing I have, I probably would have had the housing remounted before calling it a night….I cleaned up the u-bolts and repainted shock plate.

Wednesday last week I spoke to Quick Performance near end of work day and received my overhaul kit on Friday due to my location.

Very nice and asked me questions to ensure I received the correct kit for my Currie traction lock.
The kit I received is made by Yukon Gear.

TKOPerformance wrote:

Always use new u-bolts.  They are one time use. 

Interesting, I never heard that, what is the reason why they are one time use?
BTW - I'v re-used these u-bolts many times through the years and have never had any trouble. 
 

All of the u bolts I’ve seen, not that many though, had rolled threads and we’re not cut. For that matter most all threads on automotive bolts are rolled.

TremendousWand wrote:

Steve69 wrote:

I went the Quick Performance route with there 9" center section last year.  I went with the Eaton Truetrac with
a 3.25 gear.   Mine works great.  I did there break in which was drive 5 miles let it cool off like 3 times before you take it for a longer trip.  I welded a add and drain the oil plug in housing also.  I had my axle housing out which made it easier.  

Steve69

You welded a drain plug?  Why didn't you tapp the housing?  I was just going to use a 1/2-20 drain plug by tapping the housing.  Seen it done other places.

I was welding a filler plug figured might as weld the drain plug too.  You could tap it too.   
 

Anybody ran across any good deals on the 8 inch third member rebuilds? I am wanting to go like 3:25 or 3:55 I bought a maverick rear the other day… don’t know why lol. Figured it would be a good trade for other stuff later.

Last edited by BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA (9/26/2022 5:42 AM)

Wish I was closer Billy.  I'd set it up for you for free.

TremendousWand wrote:

BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:

Anybody ran across any good deals on the 8 inch third member rebuilds? I am wanting to go like 3:25 or 3:55 I bought a maverick rear the other day… don’t know why lol. Figured it would be a good trade for other stuff later.

Looks like it's still Quick Performance as the best option.  I'm holding out hope that one of these companies will offer some discount or at least free shipping during the holidays to bring the price down a bit.

looks like with shipping it would be $1028.95 
8 inch  standard case and 28 posi,3;55 gear, standard yoke and pinion support.