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First, an update. I FINALLY got my 9 inch rear end done this past weekend. I'm really happy with it, so far. For those who remember, I had a problem with the new driver's side axle,. After putting it up against the old one, realized it was too long (if you remember, the bearing was sticking out of the housing too much). Ended up having to take 3/16" off of it and it went right in. Drum brakes were fun (sarcasm included), but got them together, bolted in my new STEEL driveshaft (took MS's advice) and took her for a spin. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! Went from the stock original 8 inch rear end to a 9 inch with 3.91 gears and wow. Getting all that HP to the ground now!!
Ok. Onto my new question:
I start the engine in neutral without disengaging the clutch and it runs perfect. 800-850 RPMs. As soon as I disengage the clutch, the RPMs drop to about 550 and the engine stalls. I really think this revolves around how much I have tightened my clutch cable at the clutch fork, but I'm not sure. We have talked in the past about adjusting my clutch due to a whine (still there, btw) and I think I may have the fork pulled too far forward and when I depress the clutch, it just bogs the engine down. Does this sound like a possibility? I'm going to let the exhaust pipes cool off before I crawl under there and loosen it up a bit, but I thought I would run this past you guys first.
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stng66 wrote:
I think I may have the fork pulled too far forward and when I depress the clutch, it just bogs the engine down. Does this sound like a possibility?
Tested. That wasn't my problem. Any suggestions?
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Do you have a way to check axial/thrust play? You could try to set up a dial indicator on the front of the crank and see if you get forward movement of the crank when the clutch is pressed. That is a worst-case scenario that is unlikely but the crank is loaded when you press the clutch and if your thrust bearing is damaged or incorrect it may cause running problems - but I hope not. Stranger things have happened but what ground do you have between the engine and the frame? Other things to look into might be movement in the dash when pressing the clutch that is affecting your ignition switch. What does it act like when you are shifting while driving or does it only seem to affect idle?
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Interestingly enough, I'm able to drive the car. If I keep the RPMs up, it's just when I press the clutch that the engine wants to stall.
As far as the forward movement of the crank, I can get ahold of a dial indicator and check that out. I agree, from the things I've read, I hope this isn't the case.
I have checked and rechecked grounds because of other issues I've had, so I know my ground situation is under control.
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I don't see how excess crank end play could make a difference in how the engine runs. Take a look under the dash and see what wires the clutch pedal is moving as you push it
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I thought I would give you guys an update, since I have figured out my problem..
As odd as this is, the problem ended up being the carburetor. The Edlebrock 500cfm carb I had on my rather beefed up 302 was not tuned for my engine. I had taken it off my 289 and stuck it on the 302. Because of it not being right for my engine, maybe being a bit too rich, I think that the pushing in of the clutch put just enough load on the engine to make it want to stall. Now, I have NO idea why this happened, all of a sudden. I have driven the car for 300 miles or so with that carb on there and without touching it, so it's beyond me, but...
I bought a Holley 670cfm, slapped that bad boy on there right out of the box and my problem was gone. No stall and now, with everything just right and the new rear end...she is ALIVE!
On an unrelated note, if you have an electric radiator fan and you ever have to do anything where you must disconnect the leads from the fan, make sure you hook them back up the right way. Otherwise, your fan will blow the wrong way and your car will almost overheat.
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I had a very similiar problem, with an adjustment of the idle screws it was fixed
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Marlon66 wrote:
I had a very similiar problem, with an adjustment of the idle screws it was fixed
Oh sure, NOW you tell me
I probably could have done that, too, but the 500 was too small for my engine anyway. I think that 670 is perfect for my setup and with the factory settings out of the box, I don't have to mess with much.
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