SWEET!!!

Awesome!

As for what I think would be of interest to a novice builder to focus a few seconds on is the positioning of the connecting rods on the piston.  As it looks like that was already done by your machine shop, you could mention why and show how the connecting rods have a chamfered side that must go toward the radius of the crank throws.  Might save some people some time figuring out what they did wrong when they tried to install their rods, or on a floating pin situation.

I think its going to be great to watch!   You have a voice that is perfect for narration!

Nice!

One thing I’ll comment on from a terminology point of view is “total compression”.   Is that the static compression ration (normally referred to as compression ratio)?  Or is that the dynamic compression ratio that takes the cam into account?

9.3 static should work well with a stock/mild cam.

MS wrote:

Some GOTCHAS i have learned.

Always test the cam in the block first thing to be sure it spins freely. You can’t fix a damaged bearing after everything else is installed. And some cams are bent in shipping…

Don’t forget testing the fit of the cam thrust plate between the cam and sprocket. Should be done before the cam goes into the block. Tighten the sprocket bolt and be sure the thrust plate spins freely. A feeler gauge can be inserted to check the exact end play. Be sure to use grade 8 hex head 1/4” bolts with thin head, like factory, to attach the plate to the block. Regular bolts sometimes hit timing sprocket. A good source for the correct bolts is the old Ford oil pump you already threw in the trash.

In 351w blocks, some double row timing chains rub the block on the passenger side, so a crank/cam/chain mockup is required. The cure is to grind the raised part of the block for chain clearance, so you want to find this during mockup, NOT after the short block is assembled.

Always verify correct timing cam sprocket, dowel and fuel pump eccentric are matched, and always use clay or play-doh to verify clearance between eccentric and timing cover.

And, as everybody already knows, head gaskets are market FRONT for a reason!

 And...always make sure that you have the thick, hardened steel washer under the bolt that holds the cam gear and fuel pump eccentric on to the camshaft. The  engine shop that put my block together used a thinner, softer washer. When installed, the thin washer was deformed (concave) which also deformed the stationary part of the fuel pump eccentric, which in turn, caused the free floating eccentric to wobble, causing it to try and eat through the timing chain cover. The only reason I found out about it was the large amount of aluminum shavings in my oil and filter when I changed them.
 

MS wrote:

Some GOTCHAS i have learned.

.A good source for the correct bolts is the old Ford oil pump you already threw in the trash.

!

 
Who throws away a good Henry Ford fastener?

Great Info from everyone!  

Prof wrote:

Daze,
Very informative. The "talking stick / pointer" made me feel like a cat chasing a laser pointer. 

I don't want that... but I also have no desire to be in the videos.  I have no problems with my hands being in the videos but those parts were a large area to try and point things out but still stay out of the shot.  So many youTube creators are the "look at me look at me look at me" type and that has never ben me.  I want my channel to be about the information not the video creator.

Prof wrote:

Daze,
Your '62 Galaxy will love that engine. Thanks for the video. High quality work.

Thanks, I am looking forward to putting it in the Galaxie!.  Now if only football season would end I would actually have some time to get some work done.

Maybe a Ford Dark Blue pointer, then, and some matching blue gloves.

Are you watching tv or coaching the young folks?