4.5 leaf reverse eye if you can find them and they will set it about 1"-1.5" lower than stock. Or a mid-eye and they will be between 3/4"-1" lower than stock.

Warning a standard eye spring will look like it is a 4wd all jacked up at first, but they will settle down after a while.

If you ever carry passengers in the rear or a lot of supplies in the trunk, go for the 5-leaf. They can be a little stiff without some extra weight.

I have 4.5 leaf reverse eye on my 66.  Real happy with them.

Looks like Scott Drake has the 4.5 Mid-Eye leaf springs. Any thoughts on these as opposed to the reverse eye? Thanks. I appreciate the inputs. 

riwall wrote:

Looks like Scott Drake has the 4.5 Mid-Eye leaf springs. Any thoughts on these as opposed to the reverse eye? Thanks. I appreciate the inputs. 

 
We ordered a set of those for Jose’s 65 fastback. It made the car sit a good 4-5” higher than what any reasonable person would call acceptable.  Very incorrectly built springs.

OK, so I've ordered the leaf springs and supporting parts. I like to do some of the work myself but replacing leaf springs is not something I feel like tackling. I checked with a local shop and was quoted 4 hrs at $100/hr for $400. Sounds like a lot. Does this seem reasonable? Thanks for any input.

I did mine in a couple of hours.  On jackstands in my garage.


 

If the bolts come out, it is not difficult.  If you have to cut the bolts out, ...well, you know.

Who needs a video?  It is just 12 bolts to loosen. Plan
On new rear shackles and bushings. The two-piece shackle supposedly for dual exhaust cars does make installation easier on the driver side, but does not look as structurally sound as the original type.
Plan on also having new front eye bolts in hand as well.

Before you start, do this experiment to assure the front bolts can be removed.
First, loosen the nut from the bolts through the front spring eye.
Next, put a wrench or socket on the bolt head and try to rotate the bolts. They should be able to rotate a full turn.

If the bolts won’t turn, that means the bolts are seized into the spring eye’s steel tubes. That takes the project to a whole new level, so pay attention.

The following applies only if the bolt is seized:
You will need a large grinder with a cutoff wheel.  After unbolting the shackle and the u-bolts from the spring, lower the spring down where it is held in place only by the front eye bolt.  Then cut the front eye off the spring and discard the spring. Rotate the remaining spring eye 180 degrees and cut the spring eye across the width of the spring. Discard the two halves of the spring eye. Then you have the rubber eye bushing exposed. You can cut the bolt with a large cutoff wheel or, using a sawzall with high quality metal cutting blade, cut the bolt in two places, at each end of the spring eye rubber bushing. Remove the three bolt pieces. Then you can proceed to install the new spring and new eye bolt.
Do not tighten the eye bolt nuts or the shackle nuts until you have the car’s weight on the axle.

Hints
Do one side at a time to avoid the rear axle tilting or rolling forward
Jackstands go under the car body, not axle while removing springs.
A third jackstand is helpful to support the axle while the spring on that side is being removed.
Make sure ubolts are perfectly vertical around the axle before tightening them.
Install the eye bolt first, then raise the spring up to install the shackle.
Then, set the axle down on the spring.
Yes, shocks need to be unbolted first. Be careful the brake hose does not get stretched if you let the axle drop when shocks are removed.

Wow, excellent method MS.  Nearly 30 years ago when I did mine the front bolts were frozen.  I tried everything my 16 year old brain could concoct, but couldn't get them out or cut.  My Dad ended up cutting the bolts with a torch.  I was sweating bullets the whole time, but fortunately Dad knew what he was doing and nothing got damaged except what we intended to destroy. 

Excellent Steve! Thanks for the detailed instructions. I think I can give it a shot. I have ordered the shackles and eye bolts as well as new U-Bolts so I think I'm set. I had the leaf springs replaced about 18 years ago. I have not put a lot of miles on the car (never in the rain) and it is garaged every night so I am hopeful that the old eye bolts will come out. 
I expect everything to be here within a week so we should be past the cold snap before I'm ready to go. I'll post an update.  Cheers  

There's some debate on that issue all over the net.  I've never reused u-bolts.  I had a set in my truck for maybe 2-3 months before I got my traction bars and I still replaced them when I took the old ones off.  After exhaustive reading there's a couple reason why folks say not to reuse them.  Most of it stems from the way the threads are cut.  Basically they are cut for a one time use and the threads of the bolt and nut lock together preventing loosening, but also causes damage to the threads when taken back apart such that they will never achieve proper torque and hold it again.  Now, is that ALL u-bolts that were ever made?  I can't say.  What I can say is that tidbit made me gun shy about ever trying it.  Even if everything was fine I subscribe to the idea that bolts are cheap and catastrophic suspension failure is expensive.

I can also say that spring shops and even most trailer shops can make you u-bolts in any length, diameter, etc. that you desire.  The last 3 sets I've bought were ordered based on that info and came back almost indistinguishable from the ones I removed.  The flattened section may not be possible, but I can't say for sure as that wasn't how my old ones were made on those last 3 sets I bought (also for the same vehicle, let's not get into that discussion).

Anyway, counterpoint made.  Everyone has their own experience, your mileage may vary, etc. 
 

Quote: [
Most of it stems from the way the threads are cut.  Basically they are cut for a one time use and the threads of the bolt and nut lock together preventing loosening, but also causes damage to the threads when taken back apart such that they will never achieve proper torque and hold it again.
]Quote
I’m curious as to the method threads are cut for one time use as opposed to multiple use?
I understand torque to yield but I doubt “U” bolts fall under that category.