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Has anyone swapped over to a foot pedal parking brake for their 65, 66? I would like to do this but all the foot pedals I see a very large.
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Look at 69-70 unit. It bolts to the side panel. Adds complexity and weight, though.
For my money, the pull type is much better. I have the original one on my 66 with four wheel discs. Works very well.
I can compare because I also have a 69.
I recently helped my neighbor with a brake job on his Lexus. The rear calipers had an integral ELECTRIC parking brake solenoid on the caliper. 12 volts momentary contact sets it. 12 volts momentary contact releases it. If I change anything from the old pull type linkage, this will be the NEXT BIG THING. Two wires plus a ground wire does the trick.
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Interesting idea. There is at least one electric kit to use with the factory drum brakes
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E-stopp looks like a $599 solution to a fifty cent problem.
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...so the other electric brake option you said you like only cost 50 cents?
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MS wrote:
Look at 69-70 unit. It bolts to the side panel. Adds complexity and weight, though.
For my money, the pull type is much better. I have the original one on my 66 with four wheel discs. Works very well.
I can compare because I also have a 69.
I recently helped my neighbor with a brake job on his Lexus. The rear calipers had an integral ELECTRIC parking brake solenoid on the caliper. 12 volts momentary contact sets it. 12 volts momentary contact releases it. If I change anything from the old pull type linkage, this will be the NEXT BIG THING. Two wires plus a ground wire does the trick.
I just did the rear brakes on my Honda and had the same thought as I doing them...would be neat to engineer a bracket to mount the electric parking brake.
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Rufus68 wrote:
...so the other electric brake option you said you like only cost 50 cents?
It is built into the caliper itself, not adding an actuator under the car. My thought is, if I am installing rear discs, just use the Lexus calipers.
My other thought is, why is the original stuff not adequate for parking brake application? I guess my time and effort are better spent on some other part of the car. Just my opinion. I never use the parking brake while enjoying driving my car down the road, so it just needs to work when needed, which is not very often.
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I'm also not a customer for the E-stopp since the pull handle is fine with me as well; however, drum brakes work fine on the rear of our Mustangs. So if someone did want to keep the rear drums but also wanted to get rid of the pull handle I can see the E-stopp as a viable option.
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If anyone decides to use the E-stop, I would highly suggest an electrical interlock with the ignition.
So your parking brake doesn’t get accidentally activated while driving.
An override bypass could also be installed to allow hill assist brake if you have a manual transmission.
All of this just adds to complexity of parking brake system.
When I was installing the 2016 rear disc brakes on my 65, I noticed that if I swapped brackets/calipers side-to-side, a linear actuator could be installed in front of gas tank with 2 short cables.
I would want some sort of manual override to release.
I have heard of a few electric parking brakes not releasing on newer cars from a buddy that works at a body shop. Granted, more electronics and BS involved with new cars…think all were GM’s too.
The cost for electric brakes is hard for me to justify at this time.
Last edited by Nos681 (1/31/2023 6:08 AM)
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I would rather have a hand pull between the seats
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I gave a lot of thought to an electric parking brake system. We have a 2019 Jeep Cherokee, that's got the e brake system on it. It's got a pretty big switch right in the center console. Easy to reach.
Here's what I was thinking. Pros: 1 there is your bolt pattern Jeep to fit the Ford axle.
I played with it one day in my subdivision and the brake will come on while in drive. There doesn't seem to be any bypass, at least at low speed. Not going to try at a hi way speed lol. So I'm thinking great. Which led to this. Cons: Its an all or nothing system. What if you actually need your e brake to make an emergency stop? Brake failure does happen. You would think these dualsystems are redundant, but I'm telling you straight up, if a proportioning valve fails from corrosion, the system is no different than a single bowl master. It drains the fluid and you wind up with no brakes...suddenly.
My conclusion is it would be a great upgrade on a classic car, until the day you might need your e brake to stop the car.....
My .02 cents
Last edited by Greg B (1/31/2023 6:53 AM)
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I wanted a foot operated E brake in the 67 when I was bolting it back together. Bought a foot version for a 69 model and tried to work it out. Between my size 12 feet, the dimmer switch, and the foot operated pedal for the windshield washer fluid.... I ran out of room. Turns out the hand brake works just fine and keeps the car still. I make an effort to pull on the shaft and handle to prevent breaking off the handle.
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This has been a great discussion. The cons of the e-brake system seem to make it a poor choice. The pull handle is fine.
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It’s. It an emergency brake, it’s a parking brake and not meant to stop the car.
I toyed with idea of an electrical one but decided just something else to go wrong.
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The biggest drawback I have found with the electric e-brake in my front wheel drive DD is I can't modulate my "drifting" on snowy roads like I could with the brake handle on the tunnel between the seats.
Last edited by Chaplin (1/31/2023 8:42 AM)
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I hear you Chaplin, I have an old MG Midget hand brake lever on the work bench right now and it is going on my 65.
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A lot of Cobra kit car guys shorten the handle an inch or two (cut and splice) because interior space is limited. I’m doing this on my current Triumph TR6 build. Looks better. Different leverage changes effort.
Paul
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If you want a floor lever system, check out the lever setup from a late 90-early 2000 Jaguar XK. They are cool in that they return to the floor after being pulled up and actuated. To release, you pull it up again. That allows them to mount it between the seat and rocker panel.
Granted, the foxbody is probably simpler. Just a thought.
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I added 2.5 or 3 inches to the parking brake lever arm under the trans tail shaft that pulls the cables for better leverage. With that mod I'm able to set the Explorer internal shoe parking brakes well enough that the car doesn't want to move in gear under a bit of throttle. That's with the stock pull lever with a custom aluminum handle on it that won't break.
Last edited by Bullet Bob (1/31/2023 2:20 PM)
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The emergency brakes never worked on my old car.
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I think that is why they started calling it a 'parking' brake instead of an 'emergency' brake.
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