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to aluminium 86-93 valve covers?
I have a pair that I thought were stock, I started looking at them. The previous owner I got them from had drilled a hole and put in a grommet for a pvc valve. I bet that turned them into mosquito foggers!
Anyways that was sort of my idea. I wonder if the long tube could be chopped off to put a more period correct looking oil cap to make them look way more natural at home on an older engine. The only way it would be worth it is to somehow add cost effective oil baffles. They do not have baffles over the oil cap.
Just thinking outloud.
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There's a way to do most anything. My concern with any baffle in the cover is how its secured. You can't risk a screw/bolt, etc. backing out and falling into the engine. I had to custom engineer a baffle on the valve covers for my '89 because the one included with the SVE covers I bought didn't clear the roller rockers. I made a baffle out of some stainless sheet that cleared and then tapped the mounting bosses for regular bolts. Using a Cobalt bit I drilled a 1/16" hole through the heads of the bolts so I could safety wire them. I used some Red Locktite as well, not because the safety wire would ever allow them to fully back out, but more to prevent loosening and causing an annoying rattle.
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The "Cobra - Powered by Ford" finned aluminum valve covers I have had an issue with the roller tipped rockers I have on the installed 5.0L GT40 heads. The original baffle under the PCV valve had to be removed so that it wouldn't get hit by the rocker, which of course immediately led to high oil consumption. The baffle had been held on with four threaded rivets. I had saved the rivets, so after discovering the problem, I used a disc sander to relieve about 1/8" of material from the cast in bosses into which the rivets went. I drilled the holes a bit deeper, fabricated a new baffle out of some .025 stainless steel and riveted it in place. Been working great for 12 years now.
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I made a similar baffle like Ron68, same Cobra valve covers. Drilled and tapped for 10/32 SS Allen Head screws and safety wired them; in addition to applying loctite to the treads. I trimmed the original baffle, and bent the ends to cover the opening a bit to keep oil from splashing into the opening. I did both valve covers. Like Ron, these have been installed for like 12 years, or so, w/o any issues.
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This could be much easier than I thought. The bosses are already cast inside. Here is the debauchery I was thinking of. I got these Ford emblems from a salvage yard. Now I'm wondering if I could drill holes and add the twist lock caps on. This is for a low buck Ford engine. Not going on a first class project.
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Last edited by Greg B (3/11/2023 2:58 PM)
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I would not drill holes in the valve covers and have anything inside them that isn't absolutely necessary. I would just epoxy them in place.
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So which size Ford emblem you like better?
Maybe I will run across some nice powered by Ford valve covers. Those have gotten up there in price
This is for my low buck engine going in my Galaxie 4door hardtop. I don't want fancy or cheap chrome or aluminum valve covers on it. Its not a matter of price, its more similar to rat rodding. I have fancy covers if I wanted to use them. I want something different.
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What about using the tube as an oil separator with a custom baffle built inside the tube? Use two valve covers that have the tube? I have extra sers of those if someone wants to experiment.
Also have several sets of my favorite 1984 aluminum covers Power by Ford with fins
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Use da BIG 'UNZ !!!
6sal6
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I go the other way, I'd use the smaller ones. I'd also play with placement. Offset the emblem to one side and possible use another emblem for the specific model on the other side (Mustang, F100, etc).
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Are the valve covers are upside down with your Ford labels in your picture?
I would skip those labels.
Perhaps a model nameplate instead.
Last edited by Nos681 (3/12/2023 8:11 AM)
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Yes, they are upside down. Lol. I just set them on there to take a pic.
After thinking about it overnight if one were to use the already existing internal bosses to fasten a cover plate, the oil fill will always be on the right and the pvc on the left rear. Don't know how that would interfere with the throttle.
Anyways, all of this is just thinking outside the box. It just seems like a nice thick well made piece of aluminium and such a blank canvass to just completely dismiss it. Some of the best ideas come from piddling around.
Other thing I was considering: brazing some nubs on the inside. I already have some rods down there someplace. A few years back I grazed some aluminium together to put on the fence gate to keep rabbits out. Its held together well, and my wife accidentally smacked it with the rider and it didn't break.
I also have some galaxie inserts. Thought of milling the valve cover and making the insert sit flush.
Best, to yall!
Last edited by Greg B (3/12/2023 10:08 AM)
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I have a set of the foxbody "powered by ford" covers I cleaned up and painted was gonna use them on my new engine and one of me sons gave me a new set of Cobra Valve covers I guess I will put these on ebay they seem to bring pretty good on there.
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My two-cents … either the large or small emblems, or as Nos681indicated, a more vehicle specific (‘Galaxie’ maybe), offset them, agree with not drilling cover, but if doing so, I’d safety-wire the nuts.
The existing holes in the inside of valve cover seems like maybe a baffle had been installed (?)
If there wasn’t any baffle covering the PCV, maybe it isn’t necessary (?).
Whatever rocker arms you’re using make sure there is adequate clearance to the baffle.
If you cut the long tube, consider putting SS mesh (like a kitchen type scouring pad) into the remaining tube portion. This would allow it to breathe while keeping oil from splashing up into, and maybe out of, the tube.
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As for the Ford emblems I would be concerned on how they stand the heat in the engine bay.
I have seen some emblems similar to those faded very badly in external vehicle conditions.
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My two cents on the logos.
They make a nice clean set of valve covers look cheap.
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