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3/21/2023 8:31 PM  #1


Pitman arms?

These are a biatch to remove even with specialized pullers especially the 1 1/8” ones on the 67-68.
I’m wondering if an application of anti seize is permissible.on the splines.


Good work ain't cheap, Cheap work ain't good!   Simple Man
 

3/22/2023 1:19 AM  #2


Re: Pitman arms?

I can't see why not.
Keep it of the threads, to minimize the chance of a false torque measurement.

Last edited by 50vert (3/22/2023 1:44 AM)


"Those telephone poles were like a picket fence"
 

3/22/2023 5:09 AM  #3


Re: Pitman arms?

No reason I can see not to.  The big issue is that most of the pullers currently sold are cheap Chinese junk.  If you can find some used old ones they work a lot better.  Chinese metallurgy is typically @#$% and the puller gives before it pulls. 

 

3/22/2023 6:29 AM  #4


Re: Pitman arms?

I agree the pitman arm removal. I had a good puller I bought in the early 90's and broke it trying to remove the pitman arm from my gearbox somewhere between 2015 and 2018. 


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
 

3/22/2023 6:49 AM  #5


Re: Pitman arms?

I haven't done this myself on the pitman arm; however, it is something that has worked for me in other times.  If you have an air chisel with a blunt punch insert, you can tighten your puller till you don't want to tighten it any more then use the air "punch" to vibrate the joint similar to using the BFH.  If it is going to pop loose this should do it.


1968 T-code Coupe with a 302.  Nice car, no show stopper for sure, but I like it.
 

3/22/2023 10:34 AM  #6


Re: Pitman arms?

Thanks guys.
I also have bent/busted a couple of “ Chineesium” pullers . There is not much space for the puller tangs between the Pitman area and the gear box, there in seems to be the issue.
I have a hydraulic puller that does the job quite well but it is a bit unwieldy to position under the car.


Good work ain't cheap, Cheap work ain't good!   Simple Man
     Thread Starter
 

3/22/2023 11:04 AM  #7


Re: Pitman arms?

One thing for sure, you do know when it finally breaks free. Pro tip: a 50/50 mix of tranny fluid and acetone is the best penetrating fluid I've found.


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 

3/22/2023 11:17 AM  #8


Re: Pitman arms?

A trick I learned from my mechanic neighbor is to put the puller under tension on the arm, then smack the end of the screw with a hammer.  This works for ball joints, etc. too.  I keep a BF brass hammer around for stuff like this so I don't damage the tool.  Works for balljoints, etc. too. Similar to what Rufus68 suggested.

Last edited by TKOPerformance (3/22/2023 11:19 AM)

 

3/22/2023 1:16 PM  #9


Re: Pitman arms?

I tighten the puller as tight as i dare then put the real big hammer tight against the boss on the arm  and smack it on the other side with an only big hammer. Has worked always for me.I learned it from an old guy in the oil field in Oklahoma separating drill pipes.

 

Board footera


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