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I have the American Autowire harness in my 67 and apparently, they use a universal gm dimmer switch with their kit.
It looks just like the original, but the plug is slightly different, and you can't mount it in the factory location. The plug and connection would require it to move away from the kick panel maybe another 1/2"-3/4". MY car has a new floor so i have to drill new holes to mount dimmer any way but another thing is the wires to the switch are not really long enough to route them as i would like.
Trying to decide how to proceed. I'm not sure if i can untape the harness and get more length on these wires. If they come from the fuse panel that probably won't work but if they come from the headlight switch that would get me more length. Anyone know if they come from the headlight switch or fuse panel or both?
I debated buying a new pig tail and ford replacement dimmer switch to solve all of the issues but looking at the pig tails i'm guessing they are cheaply made with thin probably 20g wires.
anyone else deal with this when installing the AWW harness?
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If you use headlight relays, the thin wires in the pigtail would only be carrying switching current.
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The power for the headlights comes from the headlight switch.
Suggest calling AWW and review issue with them. Also, if you relocate the switch, the hole in the rug for the dimmer switch may need to be moved also.
I doubt the wiring is 20 gauge, as this would be challenging the current capability needed for the headlights. However, the insulation may be thinner than the OEM as insulation materials have improved over the years allowing a thinner thickness.
I do also suggest the addition of relays to operate the headlights as this reduces the current draw on both the dimmer and headlight switches.
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BobE wrote:
T if you relocate the switch, the hole in the rug for the dimmer switch may need to be moved also.
.
Good point
Sounds like butt connector and heat shrink time to me.......
6s6
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Cut and splice your original dimmer switch to the AAW harness. And, like Barry says, go with relay-switched head lights (a great idea no matter what) and all that dimmer is doing is energizing a relay....maybe two tenths of an amp. The repop will probably work ok but I'd never go repop of I had a good working OEM available.
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Not a good selling point for that harness system, is it?
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If i recall correctly the carpet kits you have to cut the hole for the dimmer switch. I already have the carpet i guess I'll pull it out and check. If the hole already exist in the carpet I guess that helps make my decision.
The AWW harness runs the headlight circuit through a relay so I'm good there.
I thought about splicing in my original dimmer switch and connector but didn't want to destroy a good harness for a 67 fastback. The original harness goes for about $600 on ebay.
i may just order an original pig tail off of ebay that someone already removed from the harness.
If I could find an original style connector, I would add a length of wire to the harness with a good but connector and heat shrink and then crimp ends on and install in original location but I don't see an original style connector with terminals available.
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1fststang wrote:
The AWW harness runs the headlight circuit through a relay so I'm good there.
If that harness runs the headlights through "A" relay, ONE, then they are probably unloading the headlight switch but NOT the dimmer Switch. The proper way, IMO, to do relay switched headlights is to use two relays, HIGH and LOW beams, that are supervised by the dimmer. That way you have removed headlight current load from all the OEM type switches.
BB1
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Bullet Bob wrote:
1fststang wrote:
The AWW harness runs the headlight circuit through a relay so I'm good there.
If that harness runs the headlights through "A" relay, ONE, then they are probably unloading the headlight switch but NOT the dimmer Switch. The proper way, IMO, to do relay switched headlights is to use two relays, HIGH and LOW beams, that are supervised by the dimmer. That way you have removed headlight current load from all the OEM type switches.
BB1
Totally agree with BB1, two relays are the way to go.
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