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I recently asked about aluminum radiators and received a lot of input - much appreciated. My '67 Coupe is a nice 20 footer and a driver opposed to a show car - although I did take it to a car show a couple of weeks ago for the 1st time and got an award (big surprise). Over the years I have done a lot of upgrades and am once again ready to spend a few bucks on my car. I've been thinking about front coilovers but I'm not sure if they would make that much difference for the money spent. The car handles well. Rack & pinion, good springs and quality shocks. Any thought on whether coilovers would be a good idea or would the money be better spent elsewhere - maybe more HP? Thanks for any advice.
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No advice, I can share my results though.
I had Mustang Plus 620 springs and KYB Gas-a-Just for over 25 years and liked them.
This setup is great for smooth roads like a track and interstate driving.
Not so great for Michigan pot-hole paved and washboard dirt roads.
The shocks were the cause of the this problem, springs are fine.
I planned to lower the front and decided to try Viking coil overs.
I like the results for my driver.
I have the poly bushing version from C.P.P.
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I am happy with the factory stuff with a few mods. Like Shelby drop and Borgeson or R&P and a 1” sway bar. Progressive springs.
There are two different suspensions I have seen described as coilovers. The one like NOS has, which is technically a coilover shock that replaces the existing spring with a lighter rate spring but does not change the suspension geometry by replacing the spindle. The other replaces the entire upper control arm and spindle with a more modern mcpherson strut type assembly. My opinion is the mcpherson type setup might be worthwhile to improve geometry while the simple coilover shock is just a different spring
I have a friend that professionally builds street rods. He does not like to use coilover shocks because he says the lighter springs invariably sag unevenly. I would tend to agree with that. A lighter spring will be under more stress. But, I have no data to back up either argument. Listen to those who have direct experience, like NOS or others that have it on their car. But, I remember trying to sit on the NOSmobile fender to get a feel for what the ride in his car might be like. The suspension did not move at all. He said it had adjustability so it could be tuned. That part I like, but a rock-like ride would not be tolerated.
Like i said…opinion. .
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I've riden in NOS681's car, and in my opinion it is the best ride of any Mustang I've been in. A close second is Bullet Bob's nearly stock 66.
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MS…last year when I stopped at your place, I still had the the lower attachment point 1” outboard (closer to upper ball joint). I have the 350# springs for small block setup. I had the shocks Compression and Rebound at very low settings (2 and 7 respectively) and the ride was harsh on smooth roads. At the same time, with the very low settings, I did not like the bigger bumps at all.
The ‘65 still uses stock style suspension…upper, lower, and strut rod.
Upper: Arning drop 1”, MS grease groove, offset shafts
Lower: Energy Suspension inner pivot bushing
Strut rods: Poly bushings
Sway bar: 1-1/8” Front sway bar (90’s vintage Mustang Plus)
A couple of days later, Coupedaddy and I moved it back to the stock location on upper control arm.
I readjusted the shocks back to 5 Compression and 10 Rebound…in less than 30 minutes at a leisurely pace. We had the kindness of Steve and Glen to use their lift.
2021 Rockwall Bash: 5 compression/ 10 rebound
2021 Kansas mini Bash: 7 compression/ 12 rebound
2022 U.P. to Texas (relocated 1” outboard): started at 7/12…2/7…too much spring
2022 Texas to Vandalia Bash (stock location): 5 compression/ 10 rebound
2023 Bash: 5 compression/ 10 rebound most likely
It only takes a couple of minutes to change shock settings.
Last edited by Nos681 (5/30/2023 5:09 AM)
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I guess the best part about those is the adjustability. Getting the ride height perfect, as NOS has achieved, is no easy feat when using stock style suspension components. It typically requires lots of experimentation, which burns time and effort.
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I vote yes on the "improved" stock set-up and spend the bucks of 'go-fast stuff'.....ignition...cam...heads...exhaust.
6sally6
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6sally6 wrote:
I vote yes on the "improved" stock set-up and spend the bucks of 'go-fast stuff'.....ignition...cam...heads...exhaust.
6sally6
That's not your normal answer Sal... oh wait...nevermind.
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Bearing Bob wrote:
6sally6 wrote:
I vote yes on the "improved" stock set-up and spend the bucks of 'go-fast stuff'.....ignition...cam...heads...exhaust.
6sally6
That's not your normal answer Sal... oh wait...nevermind.
Sal did say the magic word, CAM 😆
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I have the stock suspension setup in mine and am very happy with it. I went right through it and replaced all the suspension and steering with Moog (while it was still USA made). I also added a 1 inch thick swaybar. It's a delight to drive and handles well in my opinion.
Only regret... Dummy here didn't think to do the Shelby drop while I had everything out 😔
This will be done next time.
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Bearing Bob wrote:
I've riden in NOS681's car, and in my opinion it is the best ride of any Mustang I've been in. A close second is Bullet Bob's nearly stock 66.
I have DRIVEN Nos' car and I thought it was very nice and supple, if that can be applied to a car's suspension, yet solid. It felt great, especially compared to the Heap which has Mustang Plus 620's in the front. Yes, I was impressed.
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I have coilover system in mine. It works great but If I was to do it over again I would use stock system with upgraded shocks. It is nice to adjust the ride height with the coilover system. I would put your $ in the steering like MS said. That can make a big improvement from the stock power steering system. My son just did a EPS Prius system in his 68 Mustang and that works really nice.
Steve69
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