Welcome to the best Mustang forum.
I can't answer your question on the brackets, but will offer that swapping to disc brakes requires a different master cylinder.  Excessive pedal travel may be due to the fact that the disc brake calipers use more fluid then drum brake wheel cylinders to activate braking.  Plus, line pressure is considerably higher for disc brakes then drum brakes, so pedal pressure is higher then drum brakes.

BobE wrote:

Welcome to the best Mustang forum.
I can't answer your question on the brackets, but will offer that swapping to disc brakes requires a different master cylinder.  Excessive pedal travel may be due to the fact that the disc brake calipers use more fluid then drum brake wheel cylinders to activate braking.  Plus, line pressure is considerably higher for disc brakes then drum brakes, so pedal pressure is higher then drum brakes.

Yep, I've actually already installed a conversion kit from another manufacturer (CSRP) that came with a new master cylinder, front disc brakes and booster, just not happy with the brake pedal travel from this setup so looking at switching over to Mustang Steve for a new pedal/booster to change the ratio.

The PB-2 kit accomplishes exactly the same end result. The PB-5 kit is typically sold to those who don’t do their own welding and to shops that would rather just install stuff without having to do any fabrication.

MS wrote:

The PB-2 kit accomplishes exactly the same end result. The PB-5 kit is typically sold to those who don’t do their own welding and to shops that would rather just install stuff without having to do any fabrication.

Thanks for the quick response. One more question: The current front power disc brake conversion kit I have installed (from CSRP) has resulted in around 3" of brake travel before there is any feel in the brake pedal and then another 1-2" where you can feel resistance in the pedal and the car actually brakes. Not sure if you're familiar with the kit, but it uses a generic 7" booster, dual bowl MC (I think 1" bore), and does not account for any pedal ratio changes, so the pedal pin is currently still in the stock location and the booster is bolted directly into the existing firewall without any new holes.

Are you able to confirm if your PB-5 product would eliminate this 3" of brake pedal "free play"? It's not a great driving experience when you have no brakes for the first 3 inches, and only get pedal feel / stopping power for the last 1-2" down near the floor. Just too much travel.  I'm interested in your product and ditching my current setup, but scared of getting "burned" a second time on power brakes conversion.

Running on a 65 mustang automatic with front disc / rear drum. I've already done a lot of troubleshooting and I'm really at my wits end:

- Master cylinder was bench bled
- Brakes have been bled in order several times
- Brake pedal does not "pump up", further indicating that there's no air in the lines
- Rear drum brakes have been adjusted to slightly drag
- Replaced all brake lines with stainless steel and re-bled everything again
- I was thinking maybe I need a 10-PSI residual pressure valve for rear drum brakes, but the site where I bought the kit claims the master cylinder already has an "integral residual pressure valve" of 10-PSI
- I've checked the booster to master cylinder pushrod length with an adjustable booster gauge tool and the rod length is dead-on (0 - 0.012" gap)
- The kit maker sent me a replacement brake booster, thinking maybe it was a lemon, but the replacement booster has made no difference

Last edited by mustang6518 (2/16/2021 8:33 PM)

Which master cylinder is being used?

Front/rear lines backwards perhaps?

A bad internal booster valve can cause excessive travel.  Through the years we have experience a couple that had to be replaced.

Issues vary widely, usually air entrainment or rear brake issues.

Most bolt the kit in, bleed the brakes and life is good.

The revised ratio pedal with the larger  booster is a huge improvement.  Harder to install, but works better once completed.

Cab4word67 wrote:

I did the CSRP brake conversion and ended up going with MS PB 5 kit and now my brakes in my 65 work just like a new car. I took the CSRP booster and we installed it in a 65 C10 with 4 wheel drums and he is supper happy as I am with my 65 mustang. It is as far as I know the only way to make the pedal a shorter throw and MS Fox booster gives you more clearance at the master. 
Very happy now
Chris 

 
That's great news. Were you able to use the master cylinder and/or the proportioning valve from the CSRP kit with the MS PB-5? I'm assuming you were running front disc/rear drum?

Last edited by mustang6518 (2/18/2021 9:37 AM)

mustang6518 wrote:

Cab4word67 wrote:

I did the CSRP brake conversion and ended up going with MS PB 5 kit and now my brakes in my 65 work just like a new car. I took the CSRP booster and we installed it in a 65 C10 with 4 wheel drums and he is supper happy as I am with my 65 mustang. It is as far as I know the only way to make the pedal a shorter throw and MS Fox booster gives you more clearance at the master. 
Very happy now
Chris 

 
That's great news. Were you able to use the master cylinder and/or the proportioning valve from the CSRP kit with the MS PB-5? I'm assuming you were running front disc/rear drum?

Yes I ran all the parts except the booster. And on the C10 we used my dual bowl master for non power that I had recently installed.  




 

mustang6518 wrote:

MS wrote:

The PB-2 kit accomplishes exactly the same end result. The PB-5 kit is typically sold to those who don’t do their own welding and to shops that would rather just install stuff without having to do any fabrication.

Thanks for the quick response. One more question: The current front power disc brake conversion kit I have installed (from CSRP) has resulted in around 3" of brake travel before there is any feel in the brake pedal and then another 1-2" where you can feel resistance in the pedal and the car actually brakes. Not sure if you're familiar with the kit, but it uses a generic 7" booster, dual bowl MC (I think 1" bore), and does not account for any pedal ratio changes, so the pedal pin is currently still in the stock location and the booster is bolted directly into the existing firewall without any new holes.

Are you able to confirm if your PB-5 product would eliminate this 3" of brake pedal "free play"? It's not a great driving experience when you have no brakes for the first 3 inches, and only get pedal feel / stopping power for the last 1-2" down near the floor. Just too much travel. I'm interested in your product and ditching my current setup, but scared of getting "burned" a second time on power brakes conversion.

Running on a 65 mustang automatic with front disc / rear drum. I've already done a lot of troubleshooting and I'm really at my wits end:

- Master cylinder was bench bled
- Brakes have been bled in order several times
- Brake pedal does not "pump up", further indicating that there's no air in the lines
- Rear drum brakes have been adjusted to slightly drag
- Replaced all brake lines with stainless steel and re-bled everything again
- I was thinking maybe I need a 10-PSI residual pressure valve for rear drum brakes, but the site where I bought the kit claims the master cylinder already has an "integral residual pressure valve" of 10-PSI
- I've checked the booster to master cylinder pushrod length with an adjustable booster gauge tool and the rod length is dead-on (0 - 0.012" gap)
- The kit maker sent me a replacement brake booster, thinking maybe it was a lemon, but the replacement booster has made no difference

I can confirm it. I bought the very same kit you have and installed it on my 65 I had so much travel I didn't know what to  do. So I bought MS swing arm kit with the Fox booster and I now have brakes that can put you through the windshield if your not carful. I have never been so happy. I gave my old booster to a friend and installed power drum brakes on his 65 C 10.
 

Hi Mustang Steve - I've read through this thread and just wanted to double check a few things before placing an order as i live in the UK so postage and import will be a costly mistake if i get it wrong. I have a 65 fastback 289 auto - it came from the factory (i think) with drums all round, power assisted servo and  a single pot MC. I've junked all that as it was all beyond repair -
I've fitted a scott drake front disc kit with servo and dual MC and 4 pot calipers, a rightstuff proportioning valve, a summit rear disc kit. Ive bled everything, adjusted everything, triple checked everything - the brake pedal has way too much travel, its like 2"- 3" off the floor before anything happens.
Am i correct in thinking your pin location kit or pedal and brace kit  (PB2 and PB5) will alter the ratio of the pedal and correct the problem? mercedes c class 0 60 mph
Any help much appriciated.

The revised pedal ratio will reduce the amount of travel but, as in all factory power brake cars in subsequent years, the pedal static position is lower than stock manual brakes.  This is by design.

If you have 3” brake pedal travel, you have something amiss. Typically it is caused by the rear brakes.  The summit rear disc kit is problematic and the parking brake MUST be installed and adjusted in order to get slack out of the system. Also, adjust the proportioning valve to allow max flow to the rear brakes, just until you get this problem sorted out.  Once everything is right, then adjust the proportioning valve so the rears do not skid first. Do NOT do any panic stops until the pads and rotors are bedded.

The ms brake system should result in a max pedal travel of 2” or maybe a little more from static position to a hard pedal.

I would recommend not using the summit rear disc kit. MustangSteve offers better disc kits that utilize Ford calipers.