My TIG rig is like yours: an AC / DC stick box with a TIG conversion. When I bought it in 1979 only the highest end industrial machines had foot pedals, so I learned without a pedal. I weld only sheetmetal with it and it has worked well for me. I have found TIG to be more like gas welding than MIG. As with most things, practice makes better. YouTube is your friend and a good teacher. Try the Miller site too.

My doesnt have the foot pedal but you can add one.

From what I read it is easier for a beginner to learn without the foot pedal so we will see.

My hooes are I can get good with it and maybe upgrade to a better one down the road that will make sheet metal work easier.  I can use it with my mig and get best of both.

you tube makes it look too easy for sure.  I have 3/32 tungsten and 1/16" filler rod so I need to get the smaller tungsten which should make working with thinner metal a little easier.

one disadvantage with tig compared to mig is the tungsten have to be sharpened and for a beginner you can sure mess them up pretty quick

To me welding is like handwriting, some people are good at it and some people will always struggle(like me).  I could practice handwriting till the end of time and I don't think I would ever get any better, just like my welding. I can weld good enough but it never looks as good as I would like it to be.  Some people can just pick it up easily.(they can probably write very well also)  So, what I'm sayin is don't be too dis-couraged if your welds don't look perfect.  I have a tig and I can barely weld at all with it.  I like my mig.

SUPER!....Great piece of equipment. I TIG welded pipe for several years on nuclear submarines(woo-hoo!)
First...MIG doesNOT put as much heat in the metal. TIG can be adjusted to make a tiny puddle for attaching thin pieces of metal whereas a MIG has to have more heat to maintain a bigger puddle,butt you move faster than tigging.. BUTT the TIG is better cause it can have a tee-ninee puddle.
3/32 tungsten works GREAT with 1/16 wire. Grind a point like a pencil for steel/stainless.. A rounded point is best for Aluminum. You NEED a footpedal for Alum.......everything else....no so much.
TIG work needs to be really CLEAN. Paint/rust/oil/anything seems to just "jump" onto your Tungsten and makes a messy weld.
If you can gas weld...you can TIG. Use 100% Argon for gas shield. Reverse polarity(I think) for TIGGING.
The best part about TIG welding in my oppinion is.........if you make a lumpy-bumpy weld......you can just "flow" back over the bead after it cools a little. That's how you get that "row-of-dimes" look! No need to EVER grind a TIG joint(unless you want a smooth surface like for painting.You can even "flow" back over a weld made with your MIG or stick for the same look.
Be careful though.......since you move slower....you put more heat in the metal. That will make thin-stuff want to bow and warp. When you set the machine up make sure the DELAY(when the arc stops and the gas still comes out) is set for a few seconds. What that does is prevent the weld bead from cooling too quickly(when exposed to atmosphere air) and sucking a little hole in the end of your bead. "Welders" call that....."sucking-a butt-hole-in-your-bead" Just a little welder slang!!
As you can tell........I LOVE TIG welding!!
6sally6

Last edited by 6sally6 (11/17/2013 6:38 PM)