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Why does the lower control arm have to be replaced instead of replacing the ball joint?
This isn’t the 60’s anymore.
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My theory…. They usually need an inner bushing, too, so what the heck. It is just easier to replace the whole thing.
Somebody used to sell just a lower ball joint, but they were difficult to install.
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There are a few things that could be done, but at the end of the day, is it worth it cost wise?
There are replacement ball joints that bolt on.
There are afco screw in ball joints and the weld in ring that could be gotten from somewhere like speedway. I bought some, intending to put them on mine, then weld the reinforcement sheet metal plate on the bottom, but then,
I bought a set of Moog control arms when I saw them on sale.
Also, Rock A used to sell the press in rubber bushing. I don't know if they still do.
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I was just trying to understand the reason for complete replacement.
Sometimes, new isn’t always better.
My last suspension rebuild included Moog upper ball joints and Moog lower control arm assemblies.
I installed Energy Suspension inner lower poly bushings 3 years ago to allow smooth pivoting on the Moog lower control arm assemblies.
This is a driver, it’s held up well.
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Modify an original set with the reinforcement plate, mono ball inner bearing, and you won't be having this discussion.
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Bearing Bob wrote:
Modify an original set with the reinforcement plate, mono ball inner bearing, and you won't be having this discussion.
Need 'pitcherz'........
6s6
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I built a custom centerling with weld on mono ball joints. They came from poly performance. Can choose virtually any size. And differnt types of durability.
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NVH suffers alot when steel spherical bearings are introduced. I just wish I had the energy to get rid of the ones on my 66 strut rods and go back to good old mushy moog parts.
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Polyurethane press in bushings are available from NPD, about 16 bucks. Pop. Better than “mooshie” rubber yet not as ridged as steel.
Your choice!
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The best choice would be Del-A-lum bushings, but I don't know if they make them for the older Mustangs. Global west makes them for the Foxs and later cars.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
The best choice would be Del-A-lum bushings, but I don't know if they make them for the older Mustangs. Global west makes them for the Foxs and later cars.
Ride Tech has them at 10 x the cost of poly.
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Rudi wrote:
TKOPerformance wrote:
The best choice would be Del-A-lum bushings, but I don't know if they make them for the older Mustangs. Global west makes them for the Foxs and later cars.
Ride Tech has them at 10 x the cost of poly.
The issue with poly is that if you push the car hard enough poly will still deform and can bind. I've still got poly bushings in most everything in my '67, but went with the Del-A-lum on my '89 GT. I didn't know what those even were when I rebuilt the suspension in my '67 at 17 while it was in the body shop. Unlikely they were available either, but if I had it to do over again...
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MS wrote:
NVH suffers alot when steel spherical bearings are introduced. I just wish I had the energy to get rid of the ones on my 66 strut rods and go back to good old mushy moog parts.
I know what you mean about energy. I'm good for about 10 min before taking a break. As to the various solid mounted strut rods - They really help handling but they really make the ride harsh. I sold mine a couple of years ago and reverted to stock rubber bushed ones. I'll never go back. The old war horse has enough creaks and groans as it is.
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lowercasesteve wrote:
MS wrote:
NVH suffers alot when steel spherical bearings are introduced. I just wish I had the energy to get rid of the ones on my 66 strut rods and go back to good old mushy moog parts.
I know what you mean about energy. I'm good for about 10 min before taking a break. As to the various solid mounted strut rods - They really help handling but they really make the ride harsh. I sold mine a couple of years ago and reverted to stock rubber bushed ones. I'll never go back. The old war horse has enough creaks and groans as it is.
EXACTLY (thanks, Billy)
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Centric has a listed replacement lower ball joint. Part 610-61000. They can’t be had anywhere for the last 2+ years, including Summit. It’s the old “drill out the rivets and bolt in new ones” deal. Opentracker, right now, has Moog ones that have been removed from Moog arms for sale for $55 per. Whole arms are less than that, but they are not Moog. Is Moog still superior? IDK.
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I bought some Moog upper arms. Cheaper than buying a Moog upper control arm kit and an upper ball joint.
But the parts on the upper arm are not the same quality stuff as the individual parts. They did, however, adapt the MustangSteve shaft mod where a groove is cut in the shaft for grease transfer. (I am kind of proud they copied my idea)
The parts on the shaft are painted and assembled dry. I took mine apart and greased them during reassembly and then welded the bushings to the upper control arm.
The lowers are a bit tricky to rebuild as you have to compress the internal spring and get all the parts aligned while getting the bolts started. But it can be done.
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MS wrote:
The lowers are a bit tricky to rebuild as you have to compress the internal spring and get all the parts aligned while getting the bolts started. But it can be done.
Ya lost me here.
I can’t picture this.
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The ball joint is not self-contained like an upper joint. At least that is how I remember from many years ago
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So the original arms were captured in the ball joint in addition to the 3 rivets?
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Idunno about you but I need pitchures.🤪
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I learned my lesson about thirty years ago, and I am not taking anything apart (ABDFI, you know) to take pictures!
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